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Ordering EVO PCBs at chinese manufactures questions and help


lucky1

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4 hours ago, kbueno said:

hi Lucky,

 

can it be replaced by this model?

cheers

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Yageo/RC0805FR-130RL?qs=5aG0NVq1C4zZ4CPBAE6RpA%3D%3D

 

 

It is (not) funny how the simplest answers still lead to new questions which waste my time. This is a DIY project for people with at least basic electronic knowledge and not some kind of foolproof project for absolute beginners. There is already a CR0805-J/-000ELF in the BOM . Why choose a different ?

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6 hours ago, lucky1 said:

 

It is (not) funny how the simplest answers still lead to new questions which waste my time. This is a DIY project for people with at least basic electronic knowledge and not some kind of foolproof project for absolute beginners. There is already a CR0805-J/-000ELF in the BOM . Why choose a different ?

Ok.  Forgive me for disturbing your time, lucky.  the manufacturer had asked to indicate the correct part number of the replacement component.  had not noticed that it could be the same as R2.  

I apologize for the inconvenience. 

thanks

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Hi Guys,

 

I've got some large images of the Pin2DMD HD to share with you. You can use these to check your order against the pictures to make sure the component orientation and placement is correct. I have attached a zip file as the images are large and I wanted to keep the full size for detail.

PIN2DMDHD.zip

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On 6/3/2021 at 5:37 PM, Terranigma said:


Can you enter DFU mode? If not I am having the same problem. I have a post about it which lucky has replied.

 

If it is the same issue, could you please private message me. I am currently speaking with PCBWay about this and another separate issue. 

Thanks

Any news here? I have a PCB wich enters DFU Mode and i can flash but then nothing happens and i have no red light. Did`nt find anything here.

Greetings from Switzerland

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1 minute ago, Audiofreak said:

Any news here? I have a PCB wich enters DFU Mode and i can flash but then nothing happens and i have no red light. Did`nt find anything here.

Greetings from Switzerland

 

Hey there, can you tell me what PCB it is? No red light can mean you have an SD card installed. Do you get the green light when it is powered on? Does the firmware flash successfully on PC?

 

There are a few things you can try once we work out what hardware you have.

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Just now, Terranigma said:

 

Hey there, can you tell me what PCB it is? No red light can mean you have an SD card installed. Do you get the green light when it is powered on? Does the firmware flash successfully on PC?

 

There are a few things you can try once we work out what hardware you have.

Hi Terranigma

Its the newest 1.4 evo, no SD card inserted. Just +12V and USB, flash is successfull but still only the green light. 19 other PCB`s till now all worked good.

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5 minutes ago, Audiofreak said:

Hi Terranigma

Its the newest 1.4 evo, no SD card inserted. Just +12V and USB, flash is successfull but still only the green light. 19 other PCB`s till now all worked good.

 

Ok this is a problem that has been happening lately with quite a few boards. There can be a few causes but you will need to get a multimeter and measure the voltage of a few components before we can go forward. There are 2 points in particular to test, the left and right points of the BAT60J at D1 and the leg of the TS 2940 which is to the right of the BAT60J. Please tell us what voltage you get at these points

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5 minutes ago, Terranigma said:

 

Ok this is a problem that has been happening lately with quite a few boards. There can be a few causes but you will need to get a multimeter and measure the voltage of a few components before we can go forward. There are 2 points in particular to test, the left and right points of the BAT60J at D1 and the leg of the TS 2940 which is to the right of the BAT60J. Please tell us what voltage you get at these points

BAT60 is a 0 Ohm 0805 resistor, both sides have 3.3V, TS 2940 left leg has also 3.3V, right leg has 4.72V

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5 minutes ago, Audiofreak said:

BAT60 is a 0 Ohm 0805 resistor, both sides have 3.3V, TS 2940 left leg has also 3.3V, right leg has 4.72V

 

On my working boards you should get 3.3v on the right of the BAT60J and 2.9X on the left side.

 

Could you please check a working board and do the same checks again on that and tell me your result.

 

Edit: Sorry, I did not know the BAT60J is now a zero ohm resistor, has this changed in the BOM? If it is then don't worry to check because it will be 3.3v

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7 minutes ago, Terranigma said:

 

Edit: Sorry, I did not know the BAT60J is now a zero ohm resistor, has this changed in the BOM? If it is then don't worry to check because it will be 3.3v

The BAT60 is`nt available at the moment so Lucky said to take the 0 Ohm resistor.

Just checked with a working one, all same voltage.

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5 minutes ago, Audiofreak said:

The BAT60 is`nt available at the moment so Lucky said to take the 0 Ohm resistor.

Just checked with a working one, all same voltage.

 

Ok. One solution for problems with booting is the L1, this has to be reflowed/soldered. You can do some checks to see if this may be the cause. There are capacitors all around the STM32 CPU. You can check the voltage of these as they should all be around the 3v mark besides a couple I think which may be 1.7v. I had a few that were reading 0v, and on most of the boards, reflowing the L1 fixed this. 

Also check for any solder that may have been splashed on any components, there have been a few boards that have bridged points due to this.

 

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10 minutes ago, Terranigma said:

 

Ok. One solution for problems with booting is the L1, this has to be reflowed/soldered. You can do some checks to see if this may be the cause. There are capacitors all around the STM32 CPU. You can check the voltage of these as they should all be around the 3v mark besides a couple I think which may be 1.7v. I had a few that were reading 0v, and on most of the boards, reflowing the L1 fixed this. 

Also check for any solder that may have been splashed on any components, there have been a few boards that have bridged points due to this.

 

 

Just resoldered L1, no change. Quickly mesured some C`s and can allready say that C15 has 0V on both sides.

Have to go now, will make a list with all info`s.

Big thanks for your great help :)
Cheers

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1 minute ago, Audiofreak said:

Just resoldered L1, no change. Quickly mesured some C`s and can allready say that C15 has 0V on both sides.

Have to go now, will make a list with all info`s.

Big thanks for your great help :)
Cheers

 

C15 should definitely have 3.3v on the banded (positive end)

 

You may need to resolder L1 again (I had one board that it didn't work first time) or possibly try resolder C15. C15 may be faulty but it is more likely to be the soldering.

 

Good luck!

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13 hours ago, Audiofreak said:

Hi Terranigma

Today i resoledered all C's  and some resistors. Now the pcb starts up normaly and is recognized as a pin2dmd. Also the red led works now.

So thanks a million for your help 👍

 

That's great to hear! Most issues lately can be resolved by resoldering components. 

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43 minutes ago, Audiofreak said:

Me again, i was wrong :(

The display only works when i hit the reset button after powering up.. Any idea`s?

 

I still have a few boards with this issue, even after the BAT60J removal and re-soldering of components. Unfortunately I don't have an answer for this.

The best thing to do would be to measure the voltages of the components when the board will not boot, check them against a working board. It may help narrow down the component giving you the issue.

 

Lucky may have some suggestions, but ultimately if you can't get it to work you will have to contact PCBWay support to sort out a solution. They are aware of these issues and you can let them know what you have tried so far. You may also be required to send them a video. 

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16 hours ago, Audiofreak said:

OK i will have a look with a friend who has a smd soldering mashine, maybe something also with the stm chip, we will see.

Luckily i only have one board from 75 with this problem.

Once again, thx for your help!

 

Ok, let us know how you go when you find out. Thank you

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  • 4 weeks later...

I am taking on this project to populate the DMD on my Lethal Weapon 3 that I just purchased.  I have ordered the LED Panels  AlliExpress.  I am awaiting the quote from PCB Way.  

 

I screwed up and ordered a Nucleo board not realizing the EVO doesn't require it.  Dang, maybe I can cancel that part of the order.

 

 

Edited by bushav
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36 minutes ago, bushav said:

I am taking on this project to populate the DMD on my Lethal Weapon 3 that I just purchased.  I have ordered the LED Panels  AlliExpress.  I am awaiting the quote from PCB Way.  

 

I screwed up and ordered a Nucleo board not realizing the EVO doesn't require it.  Dang, maybe I can cancel that part of the order.

 

 

 

I will contact you in regards to this.

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PCBWay price for five boards assembled is now 

 

The total price is $505(board cost$83+Compopent cost$392+Assembly fee$30) excluding shipping cost
and bank fee.

 

Total to USA ran $540.  LED panels were $48.30 for two panels which completes one 128 x 32 panel.  Total for a Data East 128 x 32 will be $156.30 plus a couple of connectors.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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7 hours ago, bushav said:

It’s a good thing PCBWay sends pictures.  Check out this manufacture error!  I’m sure this is going to add an additional delay. 

 

They should have sent you a BOM with pricing to check and they have notes to the right hand side. If they are replacing a part for another they will specify and you will need to check if that part is compatible.

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If you notice in the picture the machine was indexed incorrectly and tried to poke the component through the board in the wrong spot. This bent the plug and cracked the board. 
 

I just got an email from them asking if I will pay extra for the replacement board. I’m starting to wish this project was through OSHPark. I’ve never had this issue with them. 
 

Maybe I’m looking at it wrong. Perhaps what looks like cracks is just a reflection. This should be a straight plug and not a 90 degree. I initially thought the plug had been bent during assembly. Maybe they are just wanting to substitute. 
 

Thanks for your order#T-1D8W362612A on PCBWay. 
Pls kindly check pic1 for part WPC,the component is bend,is it ok to assemble?

 

Edited by bushav
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