Spektre Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Backbox fabricated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider DeeGor Posted May 13, 2013 Content Provider Share Posted May 13, 2013 The backbox looks great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Backbox painted and monitors installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 I am going to have a number of high powered toys in the cabinet. After considering options, I went with Zebulon's booster board v1 (qty 2) to handle them. Here is one getting built up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 After completing the 2 booster boards I made up a wiring diagram for the cabinet. It's rough but gives me something to work on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Looking at how complex the wiring is going to be I decided to get some cable management runs in the cabinet and to build up 2 trays. One for the "toys" and a tray for the PC. The toys tray includes an iPac, 2 booster boards, an LEDWiz, a PC switching supply, and terminal strips for +5, +12 +24 and Ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 PC tray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider DeeGor Posted May 14, 2013 Content Provider Share Posted May 14, 2013 What are the shoestrings for? Are you going to suspend it in the air? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 The whole build was done on a shoestring budget! Just cheap long handles to remove the board from he cabinet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider oooPLAYER1ooo Posted May 14, 2013 Content Provider Share Posted May 14, 2013 looking sweet spektre very nice thread you making here well done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted May 19, 2013 Author Share Posted May 19, 2013 So, what LEDWiz pins does everyone usually hook their MagnaSave or 2nd fliper buttons to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider arngrim Posted May 19, 2013 Content Provider Share Posted May 19, 2013 to any pin that you want, it depends on which port assignements you associate to that pin. The logical pa is rgb flipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 So, what LEDWiz pins does everyone usually hook their MagnaSave or 2nd fliper buttons to? to any pin that you want, it depends on which port assignements you associate to that pin. The logical pa is rgb flipper The MagnaSave buttons are just like your first flippers hooked to your Ipac. The only 'flipper' item you connect to you LedWiz is to lit your flippers (RGB), not to control them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted May 19, 2013 Author Share Posted May 19, 2013 Understood. The MagnaSave (2nd flipper) buttons however are llt. (Not RGB as the primary flipper buttons are) Therefore, to be more specific with my question. What keys in the ipac are generally mapped to the MagnaSave (2nd flipper) buttons? A defacto standard for the LEDWiz pins is emerging to match Zeb's boards. He does not specify a 2nd set of flipper buttons, so which LEDWiz port have yo uall hooked it up to? Are there ROM controlled games which switch this light? Spektre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 See Preferences -> keys in Visual Pinball. Generally they are L Ctrl and R Ctrl. On your Ipac you can take any output you want and program these outputs L Ctrl and R Ctrl. The Ledwiz lit both normal and magna save flipper buttons. See here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Well a bit of a setback to the build. The booster boards don't quite function as I expected. They are 16 channel boards, but you can only have 7 of the channels on at any one time. Turning additional channels on causes the board to fail. I talked to Zeb about the issue and he is aware of it. Unfortunately I think I am back quite a number of steps looking for a way to run the high powered toys in the cabinet. (grumble grumble) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider arngrim Posted June 18, 2013 Content Provider Share Posted June 18, 2013 You mean the bare bones booster?? I just ordered one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Yep, that one. Although I have an earlier model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 I still contend that it's either your particular board or wiring... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Hey Zeb, Well we have been through the failure mode of this board and we know the cause, and it's not the wiring. I see that is the spiffy newer version of the barebones board. Has the part of the circuit changed between the two? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 The booster boards don't quite function as I expected. They are 16 channel boards, but you can only have 7 of the channels on at any one time. Turning additional channels on causes the board to fail. What table causes more than 7 channels to be on at once spektre? I installed one of V1 boards into my Electropin cabinet and it worked a treat. I was running my Crees at 700mA no problems at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 All depends on your layout maxxsinner. In my application I have RGB strips and RGB illuminated flippers. If I make them white (and these generally stay on the length of time you are playing) that turns on 6 outputs of the board leaving only 1 to operate any of the flasher lights. I don't want this turning into a thread about the booster board. It is my build's thread and I was documenting a snag I had run into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Put 12V into the 5v input and 5v into the 12v input and it will work. Not to hijjack your thread but here's a quick video of it in action. and the booster I put together to test the theory... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted June 30, 2013 Author Share Posted June 30, 2013 With the downtime on the project I am going to update with some more build pictures. First the backbox monitors mounted (backglass and DMD) also one of the flashers is shown in position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spektre Posted June 30, 2013 Author Share Posted June 30, 2013 With everything mounted on the right side/front. Things are getting a bit tight, but you can see the tilt plumb bob, the solenoid for bumper sounds, the contactor for flipper force feedback, both sets of flipper buttons with the primary flipper button having a true leaf switch and a Pele "Ring of Fire" RGB light setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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