3D Printable Wall Mounted ZeDMD HD (P2 Panel Size)

[Boroka]

3d Printable ZeDMD HD Wall Mountable Frame for P2 Panels (256mm x 128mm) (128x64 pixel)

 

First.. Thanks to the folks that created and support the Serum format and ZeDMD.  It's a fun group to interact with and have made my experiences pleasant.

I'll point to @zedrummer ZeDMD instructions page for ZeDMD  https://www.pincabpassion.net/t14796-zedmd-installation-english

 

I wanted a wall mounted DMD to keep buddies from lurching over my shoulder when we are playing..

I personally can't stand being crowded when I'm at the pinball helm ( especially when we are all drinking).. 

So..  Get that score up high where everybody can see it!  Allow others to continue darts/billards/fooseball and see the player score without coming over and bumping into said player on the machine.

 

 

In my colorization work of "Elvis" that I have been doing, I decided I wanted/needed to update from my Pixelcade (that I have currently wall mounted above my Pinball Cabinet) to a ZeDMD, since I have been implementing some of Serum features that the Pixelcade could not display.

While all is good and well in the virtual DMD seeing the features, I really needed the LED to as well, to make sure things would look good displayed LED wise as well.  (My older Pixelcade really lacks the ability to differ shades of white/grey/black and most of Elvis display him in White/Black jumpsuits).

Color portions look fine/great on the Pixelcade, Elvis in his jumpsuits really was losing details I was putting in.. 

 

That being said, I decided to put my X1 Carbon to use and design/print a wall mount for the ZeDMD project.

 

This is a compression fit type frame with screws to secure the hardware to the frame, so it is very much tailored to P2 panel(s) size 256x128mm panel (128x64 pixel).. 

I will likely do mount designs for P2.5 and P3 as well or can release OBJ files for others if they want to tackle the increase in size to fit the larger panels.

My P2  ZeDMDHD "frame" design is 25 x 5.5 inches,  The Pixelcade I have is 21 x 7 inches for size comparison

 

It is designed to use a DMD shield [Arnoz's ZeDMD shield / Benoit's DMD shield]  that can be purchased through their stores, and has through buttons in the frame to access the Dim/RGB buttons on said shield as well as access hole for the Mean Well power supply voltage adjuster..  Basically can adjust stuff without having to take it off the wall..

 

There are quite a few parts, as I designed around the thought of the average user's home 3d printer probably having a 200x200 or  250x250  print bed.  So I kept the pieces small and assembly will be required.  

I've included and additional Left side Electronics Box in the files (this was actually the original design, but I found my ZeDMD was upside down), in case they are needed.. But you will want to print "Right" side control box more then likely.  The daisy chaining of the Panels makes them directional.

 

I'm printing on a Bambu X1 Carbon with (2) AMS and the Wall mount will utilize 5 colors/filaments: Black/White/Red/Blue/Green, but you can tailor how you print to your own liking.

 

Print Time & filament usage below:

**(That's on Carbon X1...slower printers will take longer.. My Ender3v2 would probably take about 40+ Hours to print)**

You can expect/plan to use about half a spool likely ~500g..  Again, all comes down to how you print, multi-color, infill settings used..etc.

 

📂Files:

ZeDMD HD wall mount as Bambu Studio 3MF - ZeDMDHD.3mf

ZeDMD HD wall mount as OBJ(s) - ZeDMDHD_OBJ.zip

ZeDMD HD wall mount as STL - ZeDMDHD.stl

 

The Bambu Studio 3mf is laid out in 15 plates.. 

Plates 1-3 are Arnoz

Plates 10-11 are Arnoz

Plates 12-15 Benoit

Plates 4-9 Common

 

If people are unable to print their own, I MAY be willing to create some "kits" (3d printed parts and the screws used to hold the panels to the frame), but I will not source other items..  You would still need to obtain those..  My purchase list below.

If kits are wanted.. I would probably sell them for $20/25 PLA,  $25/30 ABS/PTEG  $40 Carbon Fiber  (these are rough guesstimates right now as I haven't been looking at current filament prices).. Basically I will charge cost of filament used + $10 for printer usage time (~15hours to print).

 

🛒Parts list:

This wall mount is designed to use @arnoz ZeDMD shield so that you can access the DIM/RGB buttons through the frame itself.  I also purchased the ESP32 through the same site since ESP32 come with various pin arrangements, I wanted to make sure what I was getting would be compatible with the shield.

-A ZeDMD shield

-ESP 32

******Arnoz ZeDMD shield:  https://shop.arnoz.com/en/dmd/87-esp-dmd-shield.html

******Arnoz ESP32:  https://shop.arnoz.com/en/dmd/86-esp32-wroom32.html

******Benoit ZeDMD shield/ESP32: http://benfactory.fr/produit/zedmd-shield/

 

-[Qty 2] Panel P2(Important) at 256x128mm (128x64mm pixel): https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801645705137.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.2591f19cCKSwPm&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa 

-[Qty 14] M4*10 screw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRTK7SP/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1MDC9YLETZE7Z&psc=1

-[Qty 2] M4*20 screw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRFQJK1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1MDC9YLETZE7Z&psc=1

-[Qty 2] M3*4 screw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089KP9PZG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1ZRRCZIF57JQ9&psc=1

-MeanWell 323282 RS-25-5 Power Supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DECXUD0?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

-#4 M3 fork terminals: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B5WG71Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details 

-Micro USB cable ( I did 15 ft as its hanging on the wall and all.. adjust accordingly for your setup of course):  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DJ3XC4S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-CA Glue (Or any glue for that matter) it's used for the logo Studs and very little will be needed, I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PHQG24V?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details 

 

*Either* (Power cable of course should be adjusted for your country Electrical standards)

-6 ft Power Cable Pigtail 3 Prong 18AWG NEMA 5-15P Male Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0829Q8DL9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details 
-12ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0829QG69V?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

OPTIONAL part(s):  I've included a recess in my design to allow protection and/or light diffusion to be placed into the frame.. It is not necessary and optional.

-Smoked Acrylic Plexiglass 6x24: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0859KDVZW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
-Clear Acrlyic Plexiglass 6x24: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084VVNG55?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (what I installed for protection of the LEDs)
-Plexiglass cutter (we will be trimming above to the correct size of 518/520mm x 132mm)https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y7RZ1WD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details  

          -There are various methods to cutting plexiglass.. but with thin 3mm plexiglass I find scoring simple enough... can google "scoring plexiglass" to learn how using above tool.

 

 

🛠️Assembly Instructions:

Sorry for poor quality pictures..  using phone camera and the Prototype 3d print quality for speed of printing not quality of print..

1)Print Parts

2) You will want to assemble the Top and Bottom edges by connecting the letters (A matching A) basically and using 3 medium (of the 18) alignment ribs between each section.  

The Bottom will consist of 4 parts - A, AB, BC, C and 9 "ribs"

The Top will consist of 4 parts - D,DE,EF,F and 9 "ribs"

🚨Take note of the recessed slot (for plexiglass (optional)) they should all be aligned

 

You should end up with: (yea, I see it, I have a C backwards in my design..grrrr LOL, I will fix that)

 

Repeat the process for the TOP D,DE,EF,F

 

2) Using 8 x M4*10 secure the frames to the panels (Note the panel JIN/JOUT direction)

🚨Plexiglass recession in frame should be on the side of the LED, not the back of the panels, the panels should end up sitting on a shelf/lip, 

** I wouldn't completely tighten/snug and screw quite yet , start them and tighten them so panels are secure, but wait till assembly is complete to snug all screws**

 

 

3) connect ribbon cable from Panel1 to Panel 2 using the middle JIN/JOUT terminals in the middle of the DMD

 

4) Secure the ribbon cable and 2 panels together with the U shaped bracket and 4 x M4*10 screws

 

 5) Plug in Power cable for the 2 panels and feed the end through the cable management loops to the right

 

 

6) You can add the LED end piece to the left side of the frame now.. It has six ribs built into it with the "Design by Boroka" (*Design mark is not visible when hanging on the wall*)  and secure with last 2 x M4*10 screws

(if your adding PLexiglass to the frame, you may want to do this as a last step).  Again take note of the recessed portion and make sure it lines up with the TOP/BOTTOM recessed section for the Plexiglass.

 

7) Connect ESP32 and Ribbon cable to ZeDMD shield

 

😎 Lay ZeDMD shield onto the Electics Box base 4 mounts with the DIM/RGB buttons facing the Box mount holes (Do not force it to fit.. It is compression fitted and will be snug, but you should be able to work the shield down onto the posts (the power supply is shown in picture to show how things will be laid out)

Side view showing the DMD shield all the way down on the support posts

 

9) Feed USB cable through access hole (rectangular) on bottom of control box and up around the cable tension post and into micro USB slot

 

10) Place the End Cover piece on the Control Box and Secure with the 6 Long  Alignment/Support Ribs.

 

11) Attach control Box to Led Frame aligning the ribs and using the 2 x M4*20 Screws (Again make sure the plexiglass recess aligns with the others)

At this point you may want to shift/adjust and make sure everything is aligning correctly and tighten all M4 screws SNUG.. Do not over tighten.

 

12) Secure Ribbon cable in JIN on the Panel 

 

13) Now we will mount the Mean Well Power Supply, we have left a channel in which we will run the power cables through between the power supply and the control box frame

 

Flip the DMD over so LEDs are facing upward and your Panel power cables are coming into the Electronics Box

 

I found it easiest to put the Power supply on its end

work the cables to the bottom as you lay the power supply down

 

Then pinching the power supply in place, rotate the DMD on its end and secure the power supply with the 2 M3*4 Screws

🚨Make sure the cables are not pinched between the frame and the Power supply.. you should be able to slide the cables in and out!

 

14)  connect cables to the V+/V- terminals (Don't assume my pictures are correct, always check to make sure you connected to the correct terminals)

Red-Positive / Black-Negative

 

15) Next we will run the power for the Power supply.   Again check the terminals to verify which is Live/Neutral/Ground (Don't assume my pictures are correct)

🚨With the limited space we are working with, you may want to trim the cables staggered to better fit

 

Feed power cable through Bottom 8mm hole.. It should be a snug fit

 

Attach terminal ends to the 3 wires ( crimp/soldier/heat shrink).. Your house.. make them good.

 

I found it easiest to remove the terminal screws and the screw them back in after placing the wire/terminal in correct location, but when all said and done should have something like

 

And all wires should not be above the edge of the Control Box, you might need to finesse it a little, but they all should be below the edge of the frame and secured snugly.

the wires themselves should not be pinched.

 

16) Now we need to glue the logo studs to the logo

 

17) After the glue has dried you should be able to snap the Logo onto the control Box

** Yes the pictures show my control box detached from the frame, It is so I can get better side view pictures for Step 20..  Yours should be attached to the frame)

 

 

18) Place control top cover on control base..  Make sure the USB cable is tucked inside..   I usually do the Top (by the ESP3s) snap before I do the Bottom (snap)

 

The cover should slide down the channel and again slight pressure to secure the "snap"-  Don't force it

 

19) Verify you can see access to the ZeDMD shield buttons through the button hole and everything is secured, not forced or broken or anything

 

 

20) Insert buttons into the "Button hole" and secure with the 2 short Ribs. (1 per button)

 

 

You should be able to press the button and feel the retraction and pop-back from the DMD shield buttons freely moving..

 

21) (Optional Step) Cut/Add plexiglass into the recessed slot covering the LEDs and attach the LED end ("Designed by Boroka") if your adding plexiglass to frame.

**Note to self - capture scoring/cutting plexiglass for frame**

 

Frame is complete

 

I'll hang it again shortly and add a video of it in action for those that may want to "see it in action" on the wall as an example.

-B

 

 

[zedrummer]

Thanks for the great job and sharing @Boroka, a wall mount is a nice idea!

[Westworld]

Nice instructions. I wonder how you managed to run two ZeDMD in parallel?

Or do you use a monitor in the cabinet and "only" the wall mounted ZeDMD?

[Boroka]

Single ZeDMD (on the wall).

Cabinet has 4 monitors (playfield, FULLDMD screen(runs virtual DMD & pup packs), Backglass, Topper) then the wall Mount ZeDMD..

 

 

 

 

[arnoz]

I ❤️ you !!!

[Boroka]

  No problem.. Thanks to everybody supporting the Serum/ZeDMD DIY stuff.   Fun group..

BTW.. received Benoit's shield yesterday and updating (well created new electrics Box) to support that shield as well.. users can print the desired box/cover depending on the shield being used.

Running some test prints currently and testing fittings..  will update the download files in a day or two.