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Westworld last won the day on June 17 2017

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  1. I'm sorry, I thought it was merged in the repository. I had it in a virtual machine on an Intel based MacBook, and it was the only reason for me to use Windows. When I switched to ARM based Mac, I just deleted the virtual machine, thinking I did not needed it for years, why keep it... Just checked all old backups I still have, but could not find it. I only remember it was not really that much work. I'm not a Visual xx guy, B2S was the first (and only) time for me to use that language and it took not more than 30 minutes to do that. Hopefully somebody with more experience can redo the work quickly...
  2. vni/pal would be great. I would have no issues to pay Lucky's fee, but I could not got the hardware needed from China. ZeDMD was easy to purchase, but is blocked for pac as it cannot run Lucky firmware.
  3. Westworld


  4. You could load the DOF source and try to create your own tool to do so. That could be a lot of work but theoretically possible. You could also add a LAN adapter to your Arduino and use an ARTNET library and write your own firmware to bind Artnet with your led strip. DOF allows to use Artnet, before Teensy code was available I used that for hundreds of leds. Setup was a nightmare, but it worked. So it should be possible, but don't underestimate the work.
  5. I don't agree with "no advantage". You might say "an endless configuration and setup work". Or you might say "a wonderful way to improve pinball experience and enter another world". You can also just use PinUp player, which replaces the backglass (instead direct2bs) where you need the huge files as you described. They work fine with 2 screens, even 3 or 4 do not hurt. If you once played Tron with that, you never want to miss that. I think there are 20+ games using it and each one is worth the time to setup. Tron. Jaws. Back to the future. Terminator 2 and many more. And you can use it for the player, which replaces PinballX. No different size, but thousands more ways to setup. Several videos (transparent) on top of each. You will need a while to understand, but the result is worth the time...
  6. Settings looks good for me - given you have only 20 LED's in the strip. Beside that mine look similar, just I don't set the timeout - I do not have <ComPortTimeOutMs>200</ComPortTimeOutMs> in my file. but this should not matter, as 200 is the default setting if not used. As the LEDs become white and then go off, maybe power supply issue? If you have only 20 LED's, you could charge them directly from the Teensy (5V pin), which get's its power via USB. That is not a solution forever of course, just for testing.
  7. B2S Designer allows to import your own LED's as image to visualize special designs. As reported from STAT and gtxjoe in http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=36726&hl= this worked fine for 0-9, but an empty image/background did not worked. Looks like a started, but unfinished feature in the Designer itself, the B2S Server fully supports it. I modified the source to allow importing pictures for 0-9 plus "empty". If you Cancel after importing the 10 possible digits it will use a white background for empty as before - or import 11 pictures to have your own background. Enclosed the compiled Designer and the modified source B2SBackglassDesigner.zip b2sbackglassdesigner_source.zip
  8. sorry, that was long ago and I did not kept it. It was a step by step debugging. Finding errors in my setup and even in DOF itself, when ledstrips was brand new. When the final version came out, I deleted all test versions. I recommend first to start with the great tutorial, as already mentioned: http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=36156 Only if that is not helping, you might want to do your own script. Start with Setup(), add after the init: for(word ledNr=0;ledNr<500;ledNr++) { leds.setPixel(ledNr,0xff0000); leds.show(); delay(10); leds.setPixel(ledNr,0); leds.show(); } That should run a colored LED through the first 500 LEDs. Just to be sure the Teensy works. Then move that code at the end of SetLedStripLength(). First using 500 as constant, to make sure that the command is called. Then modify the firmware again using stripLength to be sure the length is set correctly. If it works at this step, you know that the communication works (!!) and the setup of the total number of leds is correct. Try that first, before we discuss more steps... Hope it helps
  9. If you want to use the original hardware design (using OctoWS2811), you need to use 5V. The OctoWS2811 is mainly pushing 3.3 to 5V. You can find/design something similar for 12V, but why bother? I have nearly 4 Meter with 144 LED's each installed, exactly 456 LED's. With 60mAh each, that's 27,3 Amps for the supply - I'm using a 20 Ams supply. Why? If all LED's would go full power on white, I would go blind and loose the ball... usually they are never all on. Some, and usually not in white but only one color. As the LED's are so bright, I have limited them to max 60% anyway. Difficult to imagine 1000 LEDs, are you using two rows on each side? Not sure that's worth the effort, a single row is more than bright enough. On the top I have 4 rows, (50*4), each side is using 128.
  10. > Teensy can control the lights with a test program but dof won't talk to the teensie and give me output very frustrating, I remember when I was in that situation. Test program works? Great, hardware is working AND you have skills to flash your own program and do minor modifications? I modified the original script to get some debug infos, which helped me to understand what goes wrong. I used the leds itself to show debug info. First I run a red light from 1 to xxx to be sure all works, directly on power on. Then I modified some parts of the original code, to see if that code was executed or not - and for each step using another color on first led. Doing so I was able to find errors in my cabinet.xml and as result in directoutputconfig30.ini. How is your DOF configuration? Only ledstrips or more? if you cannot find the issue with debugging as above, another suggestion. Maybe you could consider to test with all other DOF features disabled, just using ledstrips. Then you might be able to use my settings (cabinet/directoutputconfig30.ini, just adjusting the COM port and number of leds, keeping everything else. Then it should just work... Based on that, you should be able to find what was wrong. If you want to try that, send me a PM.
  11. > I'm guessing 3.1 components are pin compatible with 3.2? yep, will work fine for OctoWS2811. Enjoy the ledstrips, after some days you cannot imagine to play without anymore...
  12. Nearly the same for me. I used the router and used a 12mm tool, set for 3mm deep. (that's about 1/2 inch wide, let's say a little more than 1/10 inch deep). Now the tricky part. Removed glas. Removed TV. Asked a friend to hold a vacuum cleaner to get the most dirt. Setup the router and hoped for the best, on both sides. And it worked quite well, except the last 5-7 cm at the end/rear. I needed to smooth that by hand. Then I glued the LED's directly into the wood - without any front. Looks surprisingly great. Only for the back/rear I mounted them on a piece of wood and added a plastic sheet on top. I used blank/clear plastik and sanded it, to get it diffused. I think I posted an image in this thread, some months ago. Benefit: I do not need to remove the LED's every time I remove the TV. And it looks very neat. But it was a little bit scaring to use the router on the finished cabinet. Would have been so much easier when I had build it...
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