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Pin2dmd EVO DFU Mode Error / Can't Program *Solved*


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Good afternoon.
Unfortunately, the years in people have their consequences, and my eyes do not have the same agility as a few years ago.

I have made a "beginner" error and have not been able to see the bridge in the solder of the HUB75.

Problem solved!!!
Many thanks to all the forum friends, especially @lucky1 and @Terranigma  😉

 

Screenshot-20210618-124749-Gallery.jpg

Edited by Chesco
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Hi,

I have a pcb from a batch i had purchased on pcbway and had not yet tested it.

However, today I enabled it to use in a realpin and I'm having the same problem as Terranigma.

All other pcbs are recognized except one. My pcb does not give any signal when I connect the USB. I don't even have a usb error signal. he just doesn't recognize.

Tried to perform a resold (L1) but still or problem persists. what else could it be? Could it be a problem with the USB connector itself? I cannot enter DFU mode because pcb is not recognized.

I only hear a small noise when connecting the card and when I disconnect the usb the noise seems to increase. when I press DFU and RESET the noise changes.

Anyone would have any ideas. I appreciate any help.

cheers

Edited by kbueno
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11 hours ago, kbueno said:

Hi,

I have a pcb from a batch i had purchased on pcbway and had not yet tested it.

However, today I enabled it to use in a realpin and I'm having the same problem as Terranigma.

All other pcbs are recognized except one. My pcb does not give any signal when I connect the USB. I don't even have a usb error signal. he just doesn't recognize.

Tried to perform a resold (L1) but still or problem persists. what else could it be? Could it be a problem with the USB connector itself? I cannot enter DFU mode because pcb is not recognized.

I only hear a small noise when connecting the card and when I disconnect the usb the noise seems to increase. when I press DFU and RESET the noise changes.

Anyone would have any ideas. I appreciate any help.

cheers

 

Did you check the voltage at the different supply pins of the CPU ?

There is always a 100nf capacitor close to the supply pins where you can connect better.

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On 6/19/2021 at 2:17 AM, lucky1 said:

 

Did you check the voltage at the different supply pins of the CPU ?

There is always a 100nf capacitor close to the supply pins where you can connect better.

Hi lucky1,

I did some tests with 100n capacitors and they all seem to work.
including the C14 and C16 capacitors that had problems with Terranigma.
I compared it with a pcb that is working and the tensions seem the same to me.

Some capacitors are giving 3.xV but some are giving different values, but they are the same as the working board. I don't have any 100n capacitor from the defective board that would be giving 0.002V or nothing.
So I think this is not the problem.
I tested the voltage of the USB connector and it seems to me that it is ok too.
I just note that when I turn on the pcb in full operation I don't get any noise.

When I turn on the defective pcb I have a loud noise and as I press the DFU and RESET buttons the noise changes the sound. In addition to changing the RESET and DFU connectors, I also did the test with a working board and the values are the same.

I don't know if this can help anything, but this is the problem I get.

Any new help or idea of what it could be is very welcome.

cheers

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On 6/21/2021 at 4:07 AM, kbueno said:

I just note that when I turn on the pcb in full operation I don't get any noise.

When I turn on the defective pcb I have a loud noise and as I press the DFU and RESET buttons the noise changes the sound. In addition to changing the RESET and DFU connectors, I also did the test with a working board and the values are the same.

 

Hey Kbueno, I'm working with PCBway on this new issue. 

 

Can you please check the the buttons on the PCB (DFU and Reset) are working correctly? You can use a DMM to check when the button is closed when pressing down on it. Place 1 probe of your DMM on the top left contact point of the button and the other probe on the bottom left contact point. It should be open. Then while keeping your probes on the points, press down on the button and it should show closed. Do this on all your buttons to check.

There hasn't been a faulty button reported since we got the manufacturer changed but that doesn't mean it can't still happen.

 

Another thing to try is swapping the USB cable to a different one, preferably a different brand. Dino had a similar problem but was solved by swapping his cable. His old cable worked on other boards just not a few of the new ones.

 

Finally can you explain about the noise? This is something lucky may have more of an idea of.

 

Thanks

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Hi Terranigma,

 

thank you very much for your feedback.

 

As the DFU and RESET buttons did not work at first, and I had problems with this before, so I performed the replacement of the two buttons (DFU and RESET) and the problem still persisted.

 

I did the measurements of the capacitors, the USB and buttons and everything seems ok, compared to a working pcb.

Of all pcbs in the batch worked, and only this one did not.

 

already regarding the USB cable I tested another cable and the problem persisted.

 

I tried to configure via stlink and it also doesn't recognize the pcb.

 

The noise appears as soon as I turn on the pcb and when I press the DFU or RESET buttons the noise changes a little.

 

I'm a little afraid of leaving too much time on because it looks like something is shorting out. what else could it be?

 

already any possibility to test the SMT?

 

Thanks

 

On 6/28/2021 at 7:36 AM, Terranigma said:

 

Hey Kbueno, I'm working with PCBway on this new issue. 

 

Can you please check the the buttons on the PCB (DFU and Reset) are working correctly? You can use a DMM to check when the button is closed when pressing down on it. Place 1 probe of your DMM on the top left contact point of the button and the other probe on the bottom left contact point. It should be open. Then while keeping your probes on the points, press down on the button and it should show closed. Do this on all your buttons to check.

There hasn't been a faulty button reported since we got the manufacturer changed but that doesn't mean it can't still happen.

 

Another thing to try is swapping the USB cable to a different one, preferably a different brand. Dino had a similar problem but was solved by swapping his cable. His old cable worked on other boards just not a few of the new ones.

 

Finally can you explain about the noise? This is something lucky may have more of an idea of.

 

Thanks

 

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18 hours ago, kbueno said:

The noise appears as soon as I turn on the pcb and when I press the DFU or RESET buttons the noise changes a little.

 

I'm a little afraid of leaving too much time on because it looks like something is shorting out. what else could it be?

 

Unfortunately from what you have explained, it looks like it is a different problem to the previous ones we have experienced. Unless Lucky has any other suggestions regarding the sound coming from your pcb, I'm not sure what else you could try.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Maybe it would help somebody. PCBway board, green led power on, no work at all (L1 resoldered, power at 100u capacitors checked fine, etc). 
Problem was at mini USB soldering, short between two legs. Solved, work fine now.
usb.thumb.jpg.e1f0b302486fa012cbcaf6c42d35d508.jpg

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2 minutes ago, ItemKiller said:

Problem was at mini USB soldering, short between two legs. Solved, work fine now.

Thanks for the information!

 

A lot of problems lately have been poor soldering it seems. Good to know you got yours fixed.

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  • 1 month later...
1 minute ago, djjoke said:

same problem here.. 10 out of 10 are "unknown device" in win 10..

the batch before hasn´t this problem.

 

L1 are checked; voltages are checked;


Please try a different USB cable. Different brand or shorter one.

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2 minutes ago, djjoke said:

tried 4 different cables.. no luck

 

tried 3 different pc´s too..


With one of the issues, the PC won’t even specify unknown device, it will just not show up at all. That’s generally the cpu not even booting and the board appears to have no life.
 

If you’ve got an unrecognised device error then at least it is detecting something. 
 

Can you check for any possible solder bridges or solder splashes that may be on any of the components.

 

It’s also possible that all 4 of your USB cables aren’t compatible. This was only a recent change as my older boards will work with USB cables that won’t work on newer boards.

 

Maybe Lucky can explain what may have caused this but for now I would see if you can find another USB cable, you want to try and find a short one with a thick cable and also make sure it does data and power.

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1 minute ago, djjoke said:

SOLVED!!

 

heavy birth, but now it works..

 

Solution: I put a USB 3.0 Hub between my PC and the pin2dmd..

Now it is shown in the device manager.. and the upload works.

 

 

Which hardware ? EVO ?

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1 minute ago, djjoke said:

SOLVED!!

 

heavy birth, but now it works..

 

Solution: I put a USB 3.0 Hub between my PC and the pin2dmd..

Now it is shown in the device manager.. and the upload works.

 

 

That's great, thanks for sharing your solution. It could be a power issue.

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2 hours ago, djjoke said:

Yes

 

O.K. that could explain your issue. PIN2DMD uses 3.3V USB logic level which is at 3V when the BAT60J is installed. 

Some USB input circuits seem to have problems with that. Could work if the BAT60J is replaced by a zero ohms resistor or a wire bridge. Strange thing is that I never experienced a problem like that with older STM32F4 CPUs but had it with the STM32H7 on the HD  EVO. Maybe STM changed something there.

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Was BAT60J not installed with previous revisions? I didn't go back to look. I've used the same 10 foot USB cable to connect hundreds of others to my laptop without issue. With this batch, not a single display was recognized by the laptop. I finally found a 3 foot cable that worked. These boards have the STM32F4 CPU.

 

Something has changed somewhere...

 

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, dzorbas said:

Was BAT60J not installed with previous revisions? I didn't go back to look. I've used the same 10 foot USB cable to connect hundreds of others to my laptop without issue. With this batch, not a single display was recognized by the laptop. I finally found a 3 foot cable that worked. These boards have the STM32F4 CPU.

 

Something has changed somewhere...

 

Like I said, maybe STM has changed something in the CPU that makes is necessary to supply 3.3V instead of 3V. Replacing the BAT60J increases the supply voltage. Did you compare the voltages on the old board compared to the new ?

Both is within the specs of the CPU which is from 1.8V to 3.6V

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