Content Provider Terranigma Posted June 3, 2021 Content Provider Share Posted June 3, 2021 Update: Thanks to Lucky, the issue was found to be badly soldered L1. The solution is to reflow this component. I have notified PCBway regarding this issue as well as others affected. Please read below for the symptoms. Also brought up by Dino, if you have a similar issue but you are seeing a device not recognised dialog on your PC, try changing your USB cable and check your drivers. Hi guys, A new hardware issue has arisen for me on 3 consecutive Pin2dmd EVOs PCB 1.4 Version. Using the Reset and DFU buttons, it will not enter DFU mode and it will not show up on a PC. - I have tested each of the buttons as this was the cause previously. The buttons are not bridged and connected when pressed. The buttons look to operate fine. - I have used an ST-Link to connect to the SWD pins on the Pin2dmd and it does not detect as a device. If I connect up a good working Pin2dmd to the ST-Link on the SWD pins it shows the target device, I can flash it with firmware via ST Utility and it all works fine. So ruling out the buttons, could I also rule out the USB port if it won't even show up via the SWD pins? If anyone has had this before or knows what area the failure could be in I would like to hear your thoughts. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider lucky1 Posted June 3, 2021 Content Provider Share Posted June 3, 2021 My guess - defective or badly soldered CPU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider Terranigma Posted June 3, 2021 Author Content Provider Share Posted June 3, 2021 51 minutes ago, lucky1 said: My guess - defective or badly soldered CPU Thanks Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider Terranigma Posted June 8, 2021 Author Content Provider Share Posted June 8, 2021 Hi Lucky, I have been asked by PCBway to check the soldering of the chip for any bridges etc and it looks ok as far as I can tell. I was wondering if the non programmed device voltages (measuring at the SWD pins and also the BAT60J) should be the same as a programmed device or if they would be higher? All 3 boards measure 0.3V higher at the SWD pins than my working boards. I understand this measurement should still be within the operating range but I'm hoping it will give some clue. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider lucky1 Posted June 8, 2021 Content Provider Share Posted June 8, 2021 The clue should be that the processor is not running , which you already know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider lucky1 Posted June 8, 2021 Content Provider Share Posted June 8, 2021 You can check if L1 is properly soldered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider Terranigma Posted June 8, 2021 Author Content Provider Share Posted June 8, 2021 Thanks. L1 is connected correctly and looks properly soldered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dzorbas Posted June 10, 2021 Share Posted June 10, 2021 Just to add to this discussion, I received a large order of EVO v1.4 boards today and out of the first 10 that I tested I was not able to get Windows to see any one of them. I was going to assume that all the rest of them were going to behave exactly the same way. When I plugged in a board from my previous batch, it was visible to Windows without issue. Thinking that this was a USB driver issue I went to the STM site and thought I would reinstall the DfuSe software in hopes that an updated Windows driver would be included. I discovered that there is a new application, STM32CubeProgrammer, that is supposed to handle all STM32 processors. I installed it and figured out how to update the firmware on my working board but it did not address the issue with the new boards. And of course after installing the new software, the DfuSe software no longer sees the good board. I tried removing and reinstalling USB drivers, rebooting the laptop, tried every USB port, etc. As a last ditch attempt, I tried a different USB cable and shockingly, it worked! I'm not saying this will solve anyone else's issue but Windows no longer has an issue with the boards. I don't understand why the first cable was okay with the older board but not the new ones. I'm a bit stunned but relieved. I will fully assemble a couple of these new boards to make sure they work as expected. Lucky1, the question I have is whether there is any issue flashing the firmware with the STM32CubeProgrammer rather than the DfuSe software? The Cube software is looking for a .bin file rather than the .dfu. I installed version 4.09 and then overwrote it with 4.10. It seems to work just fine. Anything to be concerned with here? Thanks, Dino Z. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider lucky1 Posted June 10, 2021 Content Provider Share Posted June 10, 2021 5 hours ago, dzorbas said: Anything to be concerned with here? No ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider Terranigma Posted June 10, 2021 Author Content Provider Share Posted June 10, 2021 Hey Dino, thanks for the input. I believe we have a separate issue. I am not even getting a "not recognised" error and bypassing the USB using the SWD pins give the same result. I did try a bunch of different USB cables with no luck, different PC's and different operating systems. This is a good option for others with a similar problem to try if they have similar issues but I think as lucky pointed out, mine is most likely hardware related. @antoniomauro is also having this issue from his latest batch of boards, maybe try a different USB cable just to be sure and also check if you are getting a "not recognised" error or nothing at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider lucky1 Posted June 10, 2021 Content Provider Share Posted June 10, 2021 You can also try to set the CPU voltage to 3.3V by removing the Bat60J and replacing it with a solder bridge or 0 Ohms resistor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider Terranigma Posted June 10, 2021 Author Content Provider Share Posted June 10, 2021 4 hours ago, lucky1 said: You can also try to set the CPU voltage to 3.3V by removing the Bat60J and replacing it with a solder bridge or 0 Ohms resistor. All 3 of my faulty boards are already running at 3.32V at the CPU with no modifications . If I was to remove the Bat60J they would be running higher than 3.32V. With my working boards I have 3.3V at the TS2940 and 2.98V after the Bat60J With my faulty boards I have 3.35V at the TS2940 and 3.32V after the Bat60J I will remove the Bat60J to see if there is any difference as it should be dropping the voltage by a higher amount so it could be the faulty part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider Terranigma Posted June 10, 2021 Author Content Provider Share Posted June 10, 2021 I removed the Bat60J and bridged the points. It didn't work. It did however bring the voltage down from 3.32V to 3.30V at the CPU which I wasn't expecting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider lucky1 Posted June 10, 2021 Content Provider Share Posted June 10, 2021 Could it be that you had the ST-Link connected ? It supplies 3.3V . I see no other way how you could get a higher voltage after the BAT60 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider Terranigma Posted June 10, 2021 Author Content Provider Share Posted June 10, 2021 When testing the voltages I didn't have anything connected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider lucky1 Posted June 10, 2021 Content Provider Share Posted June 10, 2021 Did you check the voltage at the different supply pins of the CPU ? There is always a 100nf capacitor close to it where you can connect better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider Terranigma Posted June 11, 2021 Author Content Provider Share Posted June 11, 2021 Ok I have checked at each 100nf capacitor close to the CPU supply and all of them are showing 3.3V except C14 and C16. On my working boards these show 3.xV but on the faulty boards these are showing 0.002V or nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider lucky1 Posted June 11, 2021 Content Provider Share Posted June 11, 2021 On 6/8/2021 at 3:45 PM, lucky1 said: check if L1 is properly soldered. Could only be a bad connection on L1, like I already suspected . Check again ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider Terranigma Posted June 11, 2021 Author Content Provider Share Posted June 11, 2021 The connections to and from L1 check out with a DMM. I will reflow L1 now though to make sure and report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider Terranigma Posted June 11, 2021 Author Content Provider Share Posted June 11, 2021 Awesome, that was it. I reflowed L1 and it is now showing up in DFU mode and I am able to program the pcb. Thanks again for your help Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antoniomauro Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 (edited) Also reflowed L1 fixed the usb problem for me. But after successiful flashed firmware, red led is on but no image on display at all Help! Edit: I've noticed that touching the led panel some garbage appear https://youtu.be/rqKKWQ5EgGo Edited June 11, 2021 by antoniomauro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider lucky1 Posted June 11, 2021 Content Provider Share Posted June 11, 2021 40 minutes ago, antoniomauro said: Also reflowed L1 fixed the usb problem for me. But after successiful flashed firmware, red led is on but no image on display at all Help! Edit: I've noticed that touching the led panel some garbage appear https://youtu.be/rqKKWQ5EgGo Check the HUB75 connector to the panels is connected properly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chesco Posted June 17, 2021 Share Posted June 17, 2021 (edited) Unfortunately, I have a similar problem: a Board does not work properly. I don't see a difference on the screen if I move the panel on the HUB75. Any solution? Greetings. Edited June 17, 2021 by Chesco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider lucky1 Posted June 17, 2021 Content Provider Share Posted June 17, 2021 Check if all connections of the HUB75 connector are properly soldered Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider Terranigma Posted June 18, 2021 Author Content Provider Share Posted June 18, 2021 12 hours ago, Chesco said: Unfortunately, I have a similar problem: a Board does not work properly. I don't see a difference on the screen if I move the panel on the HUB75. Any solution? Greetings. Hi Chesco, your best point of help for this issue is on this forum. If it is determined that it is a manufacturing issue then depending on what is wrong you may have to return it. Can you check what Lucky has posted and also post a photo of your HUB75 connector here on both sides of the board without panels attached. Please also check the pins on the HUB75 connector on your display panels and also swap them around so that the left panel is on the right and the right panel is on the left. I have had issues in the past where the actual connector on the LED Display was badly soldered and swapping the displays around solved it. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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