mgpasman Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 In http://vpuniverse.com/forums/topic/2635-what-am-i-doing-wrong/ I read the displays do power on, and even continue working in game, with just 5V from USB connected (no external power supply). Probably the 10A recommendation is only needed with the displays running at 100% brightness. Has anyone ever tried taking 5V from the original DMD powering cable, thus rendering the extra arcade power supply useless? I am using a WPC pin if that matters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rappelbox Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 It MAY be possible, but we recommend it not to run from the original power connector. I have a creature myself (borrowed) here and I wouldn't try it myself. Try to measure the power consumption during gameplay and check how big the fuse on your 5v rail on your game is. If you have your instruction manual at hand check the ampere rating of the 5v line Greetings, Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgpasman Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 It MAY be possible, but we recommend it not to run from the original power connector. I have a creature myself (borrowed) here and I wouldn't try it myself. Try to measure the power consumption during gameplay and check how big the fuse on your 5v rail on your game is. If you have your instruction manual at hand check the ampere rating of the 5v line Greetings, Dom The 5V line on a typical WPC pin is 5A (http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_WPC_Fuse_cards.pdf), but of course other things draw from that line as well. On the other hand, if it runs on solely mini USB (drawn from a netbook running on batteries), how-hard-can-it-be #Clarkson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beef279 Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Here is my solution. I took 100VAC on J605 from the display control board. The 2 violet cables come directly from the transformer. It's ok to enter 5A power supply and works fine. https://postimg.org/image/9x1tpt9zl/ https://postimg.org/image/dutosym6p/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coyote Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 See my board, here: http://vpuniverse.com/forums/topic/2283-pin2dmd-real-pinball-support/page-6#entry30250 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgpasman Posted August 15, 2016 Author Share Posted August 15, 2016 Here is my solution. I took 100VAC on J605 from the display control board. The 2 violet cables come directly from the transformer. It's ok to enter 5A power supply and works fine. https://postimg.org/image/9x1tpt9zl/ https://postimg.org/image/dutosym6p/ This is interesting. Although I live in a 230v area, the power supply generates 100VAC for the original DMD to work. As I understand, the power supply will run on 100VAC as well (probably works on anything between 100-250 volt anyway)? My original solution was one to avoid the power supply altogether and work directly off the 5VDC available in the pin (as it also worked on the 5V that was provided on the USB cable, I was hoping it to be enough). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider lucky1 Posted August 15, 2016 Content Provider Share Posted August 15, 2016 It is recommended to use a extra power supply for various reason e.g. the output voltage can be regulated to less then 5V. Since the mcu operates at 3,3V logical level and is only 5V tolerant a lower voltage results in better stability of the logic. We have seen a lot of errors coming from a bad power supply and these power supplies cost less then 10 euro. In my opinion not worth the trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgpasman Posted August 15, 2016 Author Share Posted August 15, 2016 It is recommended to use a extra power supply for various reason e.g. the output voltage can be regulated to less then 5V. Since the mcu operates at 3,3V logical level and is only 5V tolerant a lower voltage results in better stability of the logic. We have seen a lot of errors coming from a bad power supply and these power supplies cost less then 10 euro. In my opinion not worth the trouble. €15 on germanpinballsupplies, and if you are planning to order a few, here's where I thought I could save some cash (since the price of the kit has risen to €189 ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider UncleSash Posted August 15, 2016 Content Provider Share Posted August 15, 2016 Look on ebay and aliexpress and buy the parts by yourself! That safes you money!!! In the case for some help or links, just send me an PM! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rappelbox Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 The higher Price is for the custom controller board, customs, warranty etc. you are not forced to buy a complete kit, it just saves you time and headaches. I don't want to discuss on that matter! There is still a breakoutboard available, at the same shop... Even unsoldered, every part can be ordered one by one, count everything together and tell me if it is still expensive. Greetings, Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgpasman Posted August 15, 2016 Author Share Posted August 15, 2016 The higher Price is for the custom controller board, customs, warranty etc. you are not forced to buy a complete kit, it just saves you time and headaches. I don't want to discuss on that matter! There is still a breakoutboard available, at the same shop... Even unsoldered, every part can be ordered one by one, count everything together and tell me if it is still expensive. Greetings, Dom Nonono, I didn't call it expensive, and I am willing to pay a little extra to save me the headaches I even think €15 for the power supply is a good deal, but if it's not needed, all the better. Keep up the good work Dom . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beef279 Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 I live in france where we used 230VAC too. I used the violet cable from j605 who deliver 100VAC coming directly from the transfoermer, it's enought for the power supply and save the logic 5v wich is very important for logic and can cause reset or strange issue in the pinball. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Content Provider UncleSash Posted August 15, 2016 Content Provider Share Posted August 15, 2016 Diy = safe money, but NO support Buy it from rapplelbox or from UncleSash = pay a little bit extra, but no stress It is up to everybody itself. I know that the products from rappelbox or from UncleSash a great and no stress when something is not working. I think here are enough people who can tell it, that both of us, support everybody so good as we can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukedock Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 In europe you can also find 'pinballsp' on facebook. For about 160 euros he does a complete thing with a power supply I purchased two of these and previously got a PinDMD3 unit that I left in my old cabinet.They are all a little bit of work to set up, and I think I would rather pay a little more and get everything tested and working.Whoever you buy it from - you need to pay another $10 to register the software (unless you buy a PinDMD3). The display panels can be found on ebay, as with the power supply.I would buy a ready made ST32 board. Whoever you get it from. Just fitted a Pin2DMD in my normal pinball - I really prefer having the colour. Plus things like 'Metallica' and 'Spiderman' by Stern look amazing on a Pin2DMD. On the original question I would NOT run 5V from a pinball PSU. The game uses about 3.5amp on the 5v line so it doenst leave an awful lot. If I was you just feed the display with the service outlet on the pinball cab (just swap a wire inside the power box so it switches on and off with the power). I just use a IEC male plug and it works very well. I was going to put my power supply on 100v (the current will take it) - but I wanted to be able to turn the game back to original. Just totally disconnect the DMD output power cable at both ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukedock Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Just to add something here - I have just noticed that 'color dmd' are selling the same panel as the PinDMD3, Pin2DMD and RGB_DMD in a display that fits a Cirqus Voltaire. They indeed power it from a 5V connector from the power driver board. www.colordmd.com/installation/ColorDMD%20LED%20Installation%20Instructions%20WPC%20WPC95%20Rev1.PDFI have no idea on how bright they run the panels - but personally I run my DMD at 12% brightness. Personally I would rather not 'max out' the internal 5v 5amp supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgpasman Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 Just to add something here - I have just noticed that 'color dmd' are selling the same panel as the PinDMD3, Pin2DMD and RGB_DMD in a display that fits a Cirqus Voltaire. They indeed power it from a 5V connector from the power driver board. www.colordmd.com/installation/ColorDMD%20LED%20Installation%20Instructions%20WPC%20WPC95%20Rev1.PDF I have no idea on how bright they run the panels - but personally I run my DMD at 12% brightness. Personally I would rather not 'max out' the internal 5v 5amp supply. Interesting. I could try making a setup using a 1A floating fuse, to make sure it blows before it sucks too much power from the CPU, then try to play the game and see how long the fuse lasts. I will post the results back here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukedock Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Good idea. When I get five minutes I will do a load check on my display at different brightnesses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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