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Posted

Well, what's there to say in the introduction? It's another Tukkari Ultra Wide Body thread. After assembling it, I have to say it was definitely a great decision for a beginner like me. The service and the kit are fantastic. Everything fits perfectly! In no time at all, the pinball machine is standing in front of you in its basic form. I know there's still a lot of work to be done before it's finished, but just looking at the cabinet motivates me to keep going, step by step. It's a very satisfying feeling. In short, I'm incredibly excited!

Where did I come from? I had, or rather, I have, built a hybrid arcade pinball machine, spent almost two years working with the software, and am now taking the step towards building my own virtual pinball machine... the sheer number of accessories available enhances the pinball experience immensely.


... And here we are... as a huge Masters of the Universe fan, I was absolutely thrilled with Terry Red's mega MotU table; this table makes every MotU fan's heart beat faster.

So what could be more natural than creating a complete MotU table with a Popper theme...?

Let's get started, a picture is worth a thousand words.

Let me know what's good or not so good; I'm a beginner when it comes to VPINs, so please be gentle. *laughs*

 

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Posted (edited)

Okay, let's start with something simple, something an experienced VPIN builder would probably tackle last... The drink holder!

I found the following holder on Makerworld. A big thank you to the creator, whom I'll also be reviewing later.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/2135367-sidekick-pinball-accessory-mounting-system-v2-5#profileId-2312753
 

Castle Grayskull would be a good choice for a drink holder, in my opinion—yes, Snake Mountain on the left would be fitting, but I haven't found it yet...

After printing, it was time to paint it. In my world, it looks good, since I usually only ever pick up a brush for the wall.

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Edited by DerSchlachter
Posted

And now for the next step, which couldn't have been more obvious...the plunger :)

I experimented a bit with Battlecat's head...but the armor is spiked, so gripping the handle could cause injury...yes, you're supposed to pinball until your hands bleed, but please not on the first ball.

After some thought, I came up with Fisto's fist...printed, mirrored, I know. Fisto's steel fist is normally on the right, so for ergonomic reasons, I mirrored the print file. After printing, I sprayed it with metallic paint and clear varnish and let it dry for two days. I really like it.

For decoration, I printed a plate with the classic MotU colors.

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Posted

Before I share a bit of progress on the wiring here, I’d like to give an update on the cup holder. Important, important, important—haha... no, but I’m really enjoying it. Lets Print it!

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

The cupholder saga is officially over; aside from the final shade—which will add a bit more depth to the paintwork—I'm satisfied... believe me! *laughs*

 

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Posted

Okay, here are a few pictures of my wiring setup—it’s far from having everything installed that’s supposed to go in. It’s basically just the foundational wiring at this stage. However, I’m more than happy to accept any tips and tricks, as this pinball machine is my pilot project; I’m still lacking a bit of experience.

Coming soon: photos covering "Building a Topper" and "Sprucing Up My Speakers."

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Posted

For the speaker cover, I printed out the faces of Skeletor and He-Man. Since I’m not much of a painter—at least not yet—the faces are 2D. They looked okay during the test fit, but something was missing. I used AI to generate a few models—I don't know CAD—then modified the best one in Tinkercad to suit my needs and finally printed it. After making adjustments, I started painting the border; it worked surprisingly well, so I actually kept the painted version (haha). After that, I simply pressed the 2D-printed faces into the existing cutout and added two small magnets to secure them—hopefully, the speakers won't be affected. I’m also considering covering the entire fan grille with a decal, but I need to see how a test print of the brickwork turns out first. I’ll keep you posted.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Next up is the topper—not quite finished yet, but it’s already a solid foundation. I had an AI generate a view of a castle and then refined it using Tinkercad. I’ll likely add two more towers, figures, or swords on the left and right. And, of course, there has to be lighting—it needs to flicker and flash! *laughs*

 

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

That looks really cool. Been thinking about getting into 3D printing but was thinking "what am I actually going to print after one or two things?"  Oh boy that could be another rabbit hole.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

@DBrown67 You’re absolutely right there, BUT today’s 3D printers are affordable, and they give you more freedom to be creative. That said, I should point out that you do end up sinking a lot of time into it—but hey, it’s *our* hobby.

Speaking of 3D printing: I was away for work for eight weeks, which gave me plenty of time to mull over new ideas. The lockdown bar... but before we get to that, I made a pretty bold design choice: the color gold, combined with a good wash to give the metal an aged look. You can see how it turned out in the photos here. So, where were we? Ah, right—the lockdown bar. It was super cool, but it lacked that *Masters of the Universe* vibe. So, I fired up the 3D printer and printed some ornaments to add depth to the bar. Then, of course, I applied the wash to give it that weathered appearance. It was important to me that my hands could still rest comfortably on it, ensuring a comfortable playing experience.

 

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Here is the final version; I’ve applied a good amount of clear coat so the bar feels pleasant to the touch.

 

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Edited by DerSchlachter
Edit Text:
Posted

What’s just as fun as 3D printing? Laser cutting and engraving, of course. I treated myself to an xTool M2. The machine is great—the user behind it, not so much; I simply failed to account for the workpiece's maximum height... so the laser stopped cutting... What to do? Fire up the 3D printer again, or sand everything down and make something new—something smaller? No, I slept on it. How about a 3D-printed model of stones attached with magnets over the missing section? That way, I can still access the back box screws. Aren't I a clever one? (End self-deprecating humor.) Then I’ll paint the whole thing gold again. By the way—I forgot to mention this in my previous post—I also applied a layer of rust-effect paint with a grainy texture before the wash... and that was it. What do you think of this brilliant idea? :)

 

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For the evil side, the motive is naturally different, but the mistake is the same *laughs*

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Don't panic—the screws will be colored gold, too.

Posted

Last up for today: the coin door—also in antique gold (who would have guessed?)... and yes, the VPIN's legs will get the same finish, but let's stick to the coin door area for now. The color is gold, as mentioned, and there’s a 3D-printed plaque fitted with magnets so I can swap it out if I come up with something better—I want to avoid anything permanent... unlike the cup holder. I’ve wired up the Start and Coin buttons, though I have to press them all the way in for the switch to actually trigger. Maybe one of you has an idea; photos of the internal mechanism will follow in the next few days. I’ve swapped out the button inserts, but haven't wired up the lighting yet.

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And this is what the current situation looks like.

 

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Posted (edited)

I just drilled a few holes and with a saw made a rectangle in the back for easy access to the PC back, and used some 

black plastic strips as decor around the hole.

 

Jan of Tukkari said there isnt any back panel as when it was asked before the production line went into operation,

most said they wouldnt want a back panel.

 

Didnt want to post in Raiis thread as dont really want to derail his own thread.

Edited by RabidUrko

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