Some kind of impulse generator to give little feedback for mounting under the desk top

[Calafati]

Hello there,

first of all I hope this is at least halfway the correct forum 🙈. My question is somehow between the worlds...

 

The situation: at the moment I am playing visual pinball and other pinball simulations on "desktop mode" only. With great enthusiasm, but just very reduced on the other hand. Graphics and hardware are satisfying and the tables are awesome (many thanks to all the creators!!!).

 

As a result this became my favourite hobby and a full digital cab is already in sight but still far away at the same time: a typical "when-the-children-are-out-of-the-house-project" in a couple of years😁

 

However, in the meantime it would be great in case I could give the whole thing a little more drive. Therefore I would like to ask wether there is a possibility with as little effort as possible to give some haptic impulse to the desktop-style (for flipper, bumpers, slingshots and so on). 

 

Really naive question, I know: is there any kind of module simply to connect to usb and to mount under the table or similar? Or does the whole thing depends ultimately from the same hardware (as a centerpiece) as for the big cab projects? 

I can imagine that there has to be a trigger for this and that this signal is not accessible that easy. But finally: if I don't ask, I won't be any wiser.

 

Many thanks in advance for your suggestions, if existing.

Regards

Klaus

 

 

[deadmanworking]

Yeah you could make this work in theory in the same way that many cab builders do, by installing SSF (just not on a cab but on your desk ) - get a 7.1 sound card and two 2.1 amps, then install exciters with double-sided tape from the bottom side of your desk. 

Just not quite sure if the effect would be immersive enough. 

Another thing I've seen people build are controller boxes for VR working on the same principle, you install nearly all parts that usually live in a cab in a box that works as a controller and haptic feedback device. Examples here and here. 

The good thing about any of those DYI builds is that you can try them and later (if you decide to build an actual cab) use all the parts for that. 

In my case I started last year with a 3d printed controller and exciters mounted to a vertical monitor and over time graduated to a self-built 2/3 scale minicab - which in the end only took about 6 weeks to build, will post a guide about the build shortly - so anything is possible, just take it step by step and have fun while at it

[Calafati]

This sounds really nice. And even looks that way relating to the shaking effects. I promise myself the most of this shaking effect, I confess. With a "real" fullsized cab at least in relative sight the buttons and so on are not necessary for me at the moment.

Added: as normally I stand upright in front of a pinball machine leaning against that thing and therefore push the buttons in hip height, I fear that it feels simply strange pressing the side buttons in belly height (or higher) while seating. At the moment I´m coping well with the buttons pressing down just using the keyboard. An advantage would be that I can hide the complete box under the desk. I know what you mean with "exiters" but my translation programm does not work properly I think (writing from Germany). My imagination for "exiters" is some kind of electromagnetic unit, causing the knocking while pressing the buttons and so on, correct? But this solution finally requires the complete the complete control unit, too, right?

 

Can you give me an idea what are the most necessary parts then (interface and exiters I assume) and - if possible at least a rough idea concerning the price?

Many thanks in advance 👊😁

 

I had an idea myself but dont know how realistic that is: what about a microphone in front of the already existing speakers which transforms the sound peaks (caused by by bumpers and slingshots) in to "movement" using some kind of vibration unit as used in some cinemas under the seats? Is resonance loudspeaker the correct word? Much smaller certainly and directly connected to the table (my desktop, not the pinball unfortunately 😁). Maybe this is a way to keep the technical effort smaller? Certainly this works only when you do not have a delay in the impulse...🤣

Edited March 4, 2025 by Calafati

[deadmanworking]

Exciters or transducers are what you are already thinking of it seems, basically it's a loudspeaker without cone and box, instead creating vibration (and sound) out of the attached surface. Many builders use Dayton exciters, they have a quite interesting guide here and they are available in Germany via a webshop called Soundimports. 

I started with DAEX25 exciters which have a doublesided tape fastening system but then to switched DAEX58 cause I wanted to screw them into the cabinet sides. To each pair of exciters I added a small off-brand subwoofer, they can add a lot of vibration, these also use self-adhesive tape so you probably wouldn't be able to install them from the bottom side, Dayton also has more choices (also to fasten with screws) 

Then you only need two 2.1 audio boards, one for each pair of exciters+sub, I used cheap boards from Amazon as well. 

Attach them to a 7.1 sound card and configure SSF (there are a couple of guides around) and you could have a simple setup to try out. 

[deadmanworking]

Ps: what you mentioned in the first paragraph (electromagnetic units) is not what exciters are about. Exciters use a soundcard for haptic and audio feedback (SSF), as opposed to using actual solenoids (using DOF) for the haptic sounds. For me installing SSF seemed way easier since you need additional control and power units for DOF, so I skipped that entirely and used a strong SSF setup instead. 

[Calafati]

Hello there,

In the meantime I already installed two shakers under my desktop.

 

Now I am facing two new challenges:
 

1. as my PC does only have sound-on-board I am working with both (green) exits on the back and on the front with the 3.5mm plug to feed the normal speakers and the shakers. In the meantime I succeded a couple of times running both systems at the same time. One of my current problems is, that it seems very difficult to me to configurate the settings so that I can chose the setup easy (switching between "speakers only" for normal PC use and "both together" in case I am running VPX). The stereo-mix-option seems very difficult to me. At the moment it seems to me that I have to build up everything new from scratch each time I switch my PC on... 

Is there a more easier App solution for this one?

 

2. in case both systems run together it is very satisfying in first line. I can see, I can hear and I can FEEL now bumpers, slingshots and so on. Very nice!
BUT: in this case I have to split from VPX-side the music(and speech and effects)sound from the pure mechanical sound. This ends in a "middle-gap" as I hear music/speech/effects very clearly from the main speakers but the mechanical sounds only very dull as the shakers naturely were cut off very early and I can hardly hear the "metal overtones", as the treble is missing nearly completely. 

I already tried to give both signals/sounds to only one exit and then split this exit via Y-cable to feed both shakers and speakers (both driven by each an active amplifier) but THEN it seems that the shakers will not work in total and I cannot figure out why?!

 

Do you have a good idea?

Many thanks for your assist 🙂

 

Edited April 1, 2025 by Calafati

[deadmanworking]

Nice that you actually made the install, it's an interesting use case

 

First please check is your internal soundcard is 2.1, 5.1 or 7.1? You'll need at least a 5.1 soundcard and 2 amps to solve your first problem. With this you will want to route 2 channels (backglass audio with music/speech/effects) to one amp, your normal PC speakers. And 2 more remaining channels (mechanical effects) to the 2nd amp feeding your exciters. That way you can always stay in the same setup whether using the PC or playing, you just need to switch off the effects amp during normal use so your exciters don't receive a signal. 

 

This leads into your second question, for this I'd recommend adding 4 small speakers (or exciters!) to take care of the treble and mids of the mechanical effects. Then you'd need a 7.1 setup (Front / side / rear channels each with 2 speakers/exciters and 1 sub) 

 

I gave a few examples in my post above, in the meantime i finished my mini cab which has a 7.1 USB soundcard feeding 3 separate amps, 1 of which with two 3,5" speakers and a 4" sub (backglass audio), and 2 more amps for mechanical effects with each 2 Dayton Audio exciters + 1 exciter sub.

With your setup you are now already half there and need to maybe invest only 50 or so Euro more to make it work. 

[Calafati]

Nice that you like it. It combines a relatively normal look to my desk with a clearly more intensive feeling while playing 🙂

 

 Just for my understanding respectively mistaken thinking:

I fully understand that splitting the signal in VPX makes no sense in my setting, as the shakers are very limited in their range which leads to a loss of the overtones of the mechanical sounds 👍

 

But in case I would send the complete signal (VPX settings are the same for both options) to only ONE output, then

 

- splitting the complete signal with Y-plug or -cable will reduce its strength a little, but will not limit its range, right? Isn´t it the case that an amplifier should compensate that small loss, so that the full signal should reach both speakers and shakers with the result that the speakers will display the whole frequence range while the shakers are only giving the low frequencies and "the feeling"?

 

Because my current setting is: "rear" green output leads to my normal speakers (active with own power supply). And the "front" green output leads to a Nobsound power amplifier (also external powered) with left/right channel (speaker terminals) for each of the two shakers.

 

- and on the other hand: if I serve each system (speakers, shakers) from a different output (equal settings in VPX  and then use Stereo-Mix-Function for serving to 2 outputs at once) each letting out the whole range(?), then normally both systems should act completely independent from each other, or am I wrong? I am a little bit concerned about that 😲.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 1, 2025 by Calafati

[deadmanworking]

Calafati, I see a few issues here, first of all usually you cannot use the front and rear line out at the same time - if you plug into the green line out in the front, the rear should cut out (similarly to when you plug in something into the headphone jack) so I'm not sure how you got it to work in the first place. Not sure if this 100% the case for all onboard audio but I've never had it different. If it does work I still find it hard to predict what the actual output would behave like. 

 

Next, if you split one output with a Y-Splitter you're not splitting into two identical signals but you split into right and left channel. The next issue is that your subs need a lot more power to produce a signal than the normal speakers, so you would need to compensate a lot on the second amp to even hear something out of them. But then you would still have the problem with the split audio i.e. you'd probably be hearing only the left (or right) side of the playfield sounds. 

 

The next one I don't fully get, what's Stereo-Mix-Function mean? 

 

Since you already have two different amps, why don't you get a cheap surround sound USB card (less than 20€) and set up two discrete routes for each the backglass audio and effects, a lot easier that way.. 

 

[Calafati]

Hi there again, dead man working,

Many thanks for your answer, I try my best to come to the point: you are right, normally you cannot use both outputs at the same time. Stereo-Mix is a solution to support (for example) both green outputs at the same time, after changing some internal settings. I already got it work. But: I confess it is both frustrating and also complicated for me (because I cannot reproduce the setting by pushing a button only, so it seems) and the purpose I intended to use it for, because of the gap in the tonal middles.

 

So - after research - finally your suggestion indeed seems the best solution to me. I hope I understand the whole thing right: in case I have an internal or external sound card (I would prefer the external solution), it will be possible to connect this via USB (only) to my PC? From this sound module of I can supply both my usual speakers (active) and also the amplifier which will supply the shakers, right? And both outputs will supply the 100% full signal range to each adress, so that the speakers can reproduce the whole range with music/speech/effects AND (overtones of) mechanical sounds as normal/earlier. And on another channel the shakers will receive the full signal also (with the natural border because of their playback spectrum) and will therefore provide the required vibration. Is this correct?

 

Do you have a concrete recommendation on such a card for me (preferrably  as close as possible to my setup and the "pinball-situation" in general)? Is my setting (speakers and shakers) complete?

What are the things I need to pay attention to?

 

Many, many thanks in advance, you are a great help!!!

🙂

 

 

 

Edited April 3, 2025 by Calafati

[deadmanworking]

Yes to all your questions if you want to stay with your current setup without too many upgrades 

I picked up a 7.1 card by CSL, it seems they also have another build that costs a bit less and I also now found an identical looking card for just 26€. I would recommend 7.1 over 5.1 in case you want to expand the setup later. 

You connect this via USB and then you can use the "front" output for your normal speakers (backglass audio) and one of the other outputs for your Nobsound amp that has the subs. Since it's only subs connected I guess you could connect it to the "sub" connector (orange) and configure it so you have a crossover/separation in frequencies, not sure - you'd need to try. Get a card and see what happens - and later you can think about if you want to maybe separate the channels in VPX and build a dedicated 2-amp setup with 4 speakers and 2 subs for the mechanical sounds, I still think that would make sense, but you can build it all up step by step.

PS: maybe have a look at the Way of the Wrench video which goes through all steps for full-scale SSF, it's a good primer for the topic. 

 

 

[Calafati]

Thats a very satisfying YES 😁 And for sure, I am looking forward to try it out 👍

It is really the best solution and the CSL is already ordered (I discovered it yesterday myself and came to the same result as you did).

One question - I cannot find an answer to, but it is very weird, I know. I fully understand that I have way more options with an additional speaker set. And I already have a second one.

BUT: the challenge is that I have a "two-in-one-speaker"...

 

I will try to show it and I'll leave the shakers out of the example completely. I have a speaker set with left and right system together in one case = [L/R]   (Creative D100)

This is no problem so far, I like the voluminous sound and the fact that the speakers are so close together is not disturbing me. A real pinball machine has also not really big space between the two speakers 👍I have an identical system which I do not use at the moment. As I know now that the sound module will offer me additional features, I am asking myself wether you can route single channels also?

 

With two of these speakers side by side in front of me I have this constellation 

= 1[L/R]   2[L/R]   (which makes no sense because you do not have stereo then)

 

I try to use your terms now:

Lets say speaker 1 will play backglass audio (="bg") and speaker 2 will give the mechanical sounds (="ms")

= 1[Lbg/Rbg]   2[Lms/Rms]   (this also makes no sense because you have music/effects/speech predominantly to the left and the mechanical sounds to the right side

 

Do you know wether it is possible to "center" both sounds so that you have as result

= 1[Lbg/Lms]   2[Rms/Rbg]

 

If this does not work I have the alternative to put both speakers one above the other of course but in case it is possible I would prefer the option described above because of optical reason...

Admittedly this would have the advantage that I do not have to refigurate all in case I do not play pinball (happens from time to time 😂), just have to turn off "Speaker 2". Anyway, if you have an answer I am very curious to hear it. But its not urgent. Tomorrow it is testing day! I will report 😊

 

Have a nice weekend!!!

 

 

Edited April 4, 2025 by Calafati

[deadmanworking]

What you're trying to do is (if I understand correctly) a "fake" stereo effect of both mechanical and backglass audio within the two bluetooth speakers and unfortunately I'm not aware of how you'd be able to target individual single speakers within such an enclosed system. In VPX it would mean that you would use the "surround" option (i.e. "front" output for backglass, "rear" output for mechanical effects) and I can't see a way to mix that with the individual left and right channels from each source, sorry. The next problem would be that then you'd have no way to send audio to your subs (if you use the "Surround - all effects to rear channels"), or the subs would receive only the rear playfield part of the effect sounds and the 2nd Creative speaker only the front part of the playfield (if you use "7.1 Surround")

 

So for now I think you'd be fine if you use both bluetooth speakers ("front" + "side" or "back" outputs) plus the subs from the "sub" output and leave the VPX audio output on "Standard". Don't forget to set up the correct configuration in Sound Control Panel for each output! (Press Windows+R, type mmsys.cpl, and then select "Configure" for your new sound card)

 

I feel the left/right distinction won't be so much a factor if you don't also have the other dimension (front/back) for the mechanical sounds, only when you have at least 4 speakers for the mechanical effects you'll have actual spatial feedback (in the sense that you can "feel" the ball rolling from back to front or on ramps, and that the bumpers in the back give a different feel than the flippers or slingshots in the front etc. For this, you'd need to add 4 more exciters to the 4 corners of your desk) 

 

[Calafati]

First of all I fully agree, splitting within speakers is no option any more 👍, the same for more shakers. Thats a little bit too much effort. But many thanks for letting me see clearer!!!

 

Current sound-setup:

1) speakers (1x Creative D100 for usual stereo, already active) for all music/speech/effecs and meachanical sounds

2) shakers/nobsound-combination (the nobsound can recieve input by 3,5mm plug or micro usb) for the lower frequency

 

This bring to work is my actual goal. Splitting the music/speech/effects from mechanical sounds will a nice thing to have but if not possible without much additional work, then for the moment it is absolutely okay. It is only a second step, the first is much more important to me...

 

The latest news & also a new problem:

 

I reveived the csl-sound-module, I installed it. So far so good. Identified under VPX as both "Speakers (USB multi-channel audio device)" and "digital output (USB multi-channel audio device)".

 

To check this out first I tried the following:

1) Setting at soundmodule: front speakers in front input / shakers in sub input

a) Settings in VPX all to "digital output"

Result:

Speakers: NO music/speech/effects, ALL mechanical sounds

Shakers: quiet

b) Settings in VPX all to "speakers"

Result:

Speakers: music/speech/effects AND mechanical sounds

Shakers: quiet

 

My problem is still, that I cannot run speakers and shakers at the same time...

 

As I think that the "b)-settings" in VPX are the correct ones I will work from here now:

But the shakers are not working, independing which output on the soundcard I use, so it seems...

Following the routine above the shakers do not work on all soundcard outputs!!! Also while trying more settings in VPX...

 

In the soundcards menue I discovered no setup for stereo and sub only = 2.1, therefore I tried out several configurations both in VPX (surround: front is front / Surround 7.1) and also in the cards menue. But the best I reached up to now is usual speakers okay and shakers remain completely silent. Eventually I have overseen something in the sound menue but I cannot imagine what?!

I enclosed some pictures to display what the possible configurations are.

 

While running the testing routine on the card it seems, that always all sounds including the sub came from the main speakers?! But is a quasi "2.1"system impossible? Using an additional pair (to split of the mechanical sounds) would be a quasi "4.1" which is also not listet?! I am confused...

 

I checked out some additional setups to exclude that a part of the chain is not working correctly:

a) plugged out the sound card again and connected shakers/nobsound only to PC (using nobsounds micro USB input)

=> shakers are working (means working to my full satisfaction, you really can FEEL the table, bumpers, slingshots, rolling Ball, FANTASTIC!!!) 👍

b) connected my mobile phone to nobsounds 3,5 mm input

=> shakers are working 👍

c) using 3,5 mm connection both on PC OUT and Nobsound IN only

=> shakers are NOT working 👎

d) using the main speakers connected to the sound card on FRONT

=> main speakers are working 👍

e) adding the shakers on random output

=> shakers not working 👎

 

I came to no final conclusion or direction where the mistakes has its source. At the moment it seems that the shakers do work only in case the Nobsound is filled by USB IN. But under theses conditions I cannot supply him from the sound-card, which leads back again to my former problems.

 

I just can´t figure it out at the moment...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 6, 2025 by Calafati

[deadmanworking]

Yes, correct setting for you is "Speakers" not "digital output" and your scenario corresponds to the 4CH model. 

 

I think your problem of not hearing anything from the subs might lie in general low system volume. 

I.e. you are supplying sound to both channels (normal speakers and subs) on the same volume level, but the subs need a lot more volume to be heard than the Creative speakers. 

Try the following: Set Windows volume to 60 or 80 and have a signal on your normal speakers in the "front" output (as mentioned in d) above.)
Then swap that cable with the cable going to the Nobsound amp and turn up the volume (and bass) and see if you are getting a signal. This would be the first step to balance both sources. 

 

[Calafati]

Hi again and first of all Thank you 🙂

in the meantime I also have the thought that this is a question of good sound balancing.

I learned that the 4.0-style is the arrangement in the soundcard-menue which should fit to my setup and I choosed this one in the settings 👍

 

By following your instruction to set up a windows (means ordinary speaker level as for other applications, does it?) volume to 60 and then swap the cable with the one for the shakers. With this I received already a properly feedback from "down below". Then I tuned both systems a little coming to a provisional end as shown below. Now, at a "windows sound level" of about 30 and the Nobsound at ~50%, I have a very nice combination of music/speech/effects, mechanical mids and hights and a solid base bringing haptical feedback to the wrists while playing via keyboard.

 

And wow, comparing to the (relative) little financial effort (in total approx. ~100 Euro) and certainly with absolutely priceless help as from your side, it is a really good upgrade and clearly more than an interim solution between a fully virtual cab and just playing in desktop mode.

 

But I wouldn't be me if at last I didn't have another question 😁: according to your last postings is it correct that one additional pair of speakers ONLY do not make sense with regard to splitting of music and mech-sound within VPX? You wrote "and later you can think about if you want to maybe separate the channels in VPX and build a dedicated 2-amp setup with 4 speakers and 2 subs for the mechanical sounds, I still think that would make sense, but you can build it all up step by step."

Is there any chance to add the second speaker"pair"box with an acoustic benefit to the system as is?

 

Once again many thanks for your great help reaching this first goal 👊

 

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2025 by Calafati

[deadmanworking]

Cool, glad I could help out! 

 

Regarding your 3rd speaker, you could add it into the mix by plugging it into the "rear" input and place it also in front of you with a little separation from the other so you would have some kind of "stereo" impression.

As you can see in your 4CH diagram you now have front and side speakers active. The next option 5.1 however is only adding sub and center speaker, not the rear speakers. To add the rear speakers you would need to switch to 7.1 and disable the sub and center channels, leaving you with 6 active speaker channels: Front R/L (Creative speaker 1), Side R/L (Nobsound), Rear R/L (speaker 2). All still in VPX "Standard" audio mode. 

 

What I was referring to regarding adding two amps for the mechanical sounds (which would enable you to use the Surround function in VPX, separating backglass and effects channels) however would mean a bigger rebuild of your system. You would need to replace the Nobsound amp (cause it doesn't have a sub connector) with 2 new 2.1 amps and also buy a total of 4 new speakers/exciters in addition to your subs. For a total of 8 speaker channels. Front R/L (Creative), Side R/L/S (2.1 amp #1), Rear R/L/S (2.1 amp #2) Next goal  

[Calafati]

Okay, I finally will wait with the next goal, a little bit too much effort and stuff for my little desk 👊😁

For the moment I will concentrate myself just on enjoying the new feeling.

Certainly with including the second speaker to expand the stage a little 😉 , sounds worth that experiment 👍

But again, it is very very satisfying as it is already now.

 

Bye - - - - - - - - - for now 😁

 

[Calafati]

Hi again,

Hope you are okay!

Finally it seems that there is still a last problem left: reproducibility!

 

The results I achieved last time (in the meantime I did not played) were absolutely fine and I am very happy with what is finally possible. Good to know 👍

However, it seems at least a little complicated to achieve the results again?!

 

For the moment all sounds came through the main speakers only... As I checked the sound settings on the external sound card I discovered that the setting resetted to the 2-channel-mode. Further more all settings switched back to the 0dB-Standard (I tuned to shakers 0 and speakers -12 last time). While testing over the cards menue, all testing tones or voices came out of the front speakers. In case I test the connected components by using the system settings of my PC I have two connected speakers, on time the "speakers" and further "digital output", both also shown as the USB-sound device, unfortunately one - so it seems - with 100% volume as standard setting 😬

 

Is it possible that there is a defined order to switch on amps, speakers and pc? Means, is it possible that in case I (only) switch on the PC (for normal use with speakers only) and let the shaker side unpowered, the card detects this setting as a two channel-system only and remains in this position? Can I change this respectively is there a possibility to safe this or sound profiles in general? It seems that the sound module does not offer such an option...

 

Finally I did my best to reconfigurate, switch to 4ch-mode and set the speakers to -12dB. The Nobsound is powered and at ~50%, cables are connected, the complete volume again at 30, the shakers plugged to the side. But guess what: the shakers remain silent... Finally I confess that I disconnected the whole thing to lay the cables a little more discreet but as far as I can see everything is installed as last time.

 

I know that this is a typical "learning by doing"-procedure, but I confess that I am lost in a similar way as few days ago. Do I have to balance / set up this procedure each time I am going to play or do I just oversee some kind of save-option?

 

Thankful as usual for your kind advise 👊

[deadmanworking]

Hi - first of all, if you have a stable setup, don't unplug the USB soundcard from the PC, if you do that might be the next time you have a new device (called "Speakers - 2" for instance, I'm now at #9) with settings completely reset to default 2ch. 

Also, yes, don't unplug any of the 3,5 jacks as this might lead the card to switch settings. 

 

Regarding having the second amp unpowered when not playing, this should be OK, my cab always turns on amps and speakers first, PC last, but I don't get sound resets when I manually switch of the amps before starting the PC.  The soundcard should not revert to 2ch if you leave the second amp off but if you have the suspicion it does, leave it on at zero volume. 

 

To get your subs up and running again please check again in VPX that you are also using the same device (Speakers, not digital output or primary driver) that you are setting up for 4ch. 

And again first plug in the Nobsound into front output to check and balance the signal. 

 

 

[Calafati]

Hello again,

 

it took some time to try things out but now everything seems to be stable.

Best order is to switch on speakers (and shakers) after switching on the system itself. Setup did not changed again, everything remained as formerly balanced.

In the next days I will install the second "speaker box" under the table to have a more full volume I will try to use the rear speaker output for this one. Lets see what will happen.

 

Just in case you know it by chance a quick question concerning a specific table: do you know how to increase the music volume on the "Monday Night Football"-table (Data East)? During my search I found the following:

1, Press 7 to enter the audits and adjustments menu
2. Continue to press 7 until you see Expand Adjustments (or Expand Adjusts) in the DMD
3. Press 1 to change option to Yes
4. Continue to press 7 until you see Volume Adjustment or Background Music Volume in the DMD
5. Press 1 to adjust the volume percentage. You can either set it to OFF, or to 25%, 50%, 75%, 100%
6. Either continually press 7 to go through all the menu options to reset the table and save changes, or press F3.

 

I am struggling with pos. 4: I simply cannot find this relevant menue point?!

[deadmanworking]

Cool, glad that it works now 👍

 

As for the volume adjustment, there's no setting in the ROM in the tables of that era, instead you need to raise the volume in the ROM DMD like this: 

- Click on the DMD of the game, then hit ~ (tilde) key: on German keyboard the correct key is the key to the left of your "1" key; it's labeled with ^ and °. Hit that key while holding shift and you'll see a volume adjustment. Right/left keys to increase/decrease volume, try +3db first. Hit ° again.

- Right click the DMD, select "Game Settings" and then "OK" (without changing anything). The adjustment won't carry over otherwise. 

Hope that works!

 

[Calafati]

Hi again,

once again to the separation of the mechanical sounds - you wrote:

What I was referring to regarding adding two amps for the mechanical sounds (which would enable you to use the Surround function in VPX, separating backglass and effects channels) however would mean a bigger rebuild of your system. You would need to replace the Nobsound amp (cause it doesn't have a sub connector) with 2 new 2.1 amps and also buy a total of 4 new speakers/exciters in addition to your subs. For a total of 8 speaker channels. Front R/L (Creative), Side R/L/S (2.1 amp #1), Rear R/L/S (2.1 amp #2) Next goal  

 

I don´t know wether this is realistic but isnt it also possible to just connect another sound card to the PC? If so - please correct me if my thinking is wrong - there should be a possible setting like (preconditioned the settings in VPX are switched to "music = SC1", "mech-sound = SC2", each of both "speakers out")

 

1) SoundCard 1/2.0-channel-setting = music (front) played by "Creative D100 System One" (also the option for "normal PC usage")

2) SoundCard 2/4.0-channel-setting = mech-sound-"overtones" (front) played by "Creative D100 System Two" / mech-sound-"vibrations" (side or rear) played by Nobsound/Shakers

 

This would mean that I have to invest only another ~29 Euro for a second sound card using the stuff I already have? To be honest I don´t know wether it is generally possible to connect such a second sound-device to the PC... But if so, this should be possible, right?

Edited April 19, 2025 by Calafati

[deadmanworking]

I'm not sure how well VPX works with 2 soundcards, but you can try this straightaway since you already have 2: the new USB card and the built in soundcard of the motherboard. You could add your second speaker via line cable to the motherboard line out and then in VPX audio settings route the music through that soundcard. Effects stay on the current 4CH set up soundcard. Maybe it works?