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PIN2DMD - won't start on power-up.


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  • 3 weeks later...

First of all, Pin2DMD is amazing! Running Pin2DMD v4.08.

I've recently run into the same issue. This is my first Pin2DMD. I'm posting in case it may help others. I'll follow-up with a resolution should I find one.

My setup is running off a NUCLEO-F429ZI purchased direct from ST. No adapter board in use here, HUB75 connections and buttons are soldered direct to the NUCLEO-F429ZI board. Power to my two 64x32 P3 panels and the NUCLEO-F429ZI are provided direct with a 5vdc 30A Meanwell. The USB connection is currently to a powered Startech 10 port USB3 hub, then to my PC. It works beautifully, but not reliably from a cold boot. Works 100% on a restart. Pressing the NUCLEO-F429ZI reset button brings it to life immediately. I haven't tried too many fixes yet to resolve this issue, but know the worst case would be wiring the reset switch to a relay triggered before VPX runs. I'll try plugging USB and power elsewhere as a first step.

Additional possibly useless details...I'm running this in a vertically oriented cabinet using the Bigbox frontend because I am 50/50 pinball/classic arcade games, so I also have Two PacLED64, One I-PAC 2, One UltraStik 360, One Teensy 3.2 OctoWS2811 Adaptor, One LED-Wiz 32, a KL25Z and One USB Volume Control on the same USB Hub as the NUCLEO-F429ZI. Those all seem to come up 100% of the time. The cabinet houses a shaker, Two solenoids, a knocker and two mechanical flippers as well.

Cheers!

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1 hour ago, boogie said:

First of all, Pin2DMD is amazing! Running Pin2DMD v4.08.

I've recently run into the same issue. This is my first Pin2DMD. I'm posting in case it may help others. I'll follow-up with a resolution should I find one.

My setup is running off a NUCLEO-F429ZI purchased direct from ST. No adapter board in use here, HUB75 connections and buttons are soldered direct to the NUCLEO-F429ZI board. Power to my two 64x32 P3 panels and the NUCLEO-F429ZI are provided direct with a 5vdc 30A Meanwell. The USB connection is currently to a powered Startech 10 port USB3 hub, then to my PC. It works beautifully, but not reliably from a cold boot. Works 100% on a restart. Pressing the NUCLEO-F429ZI reset button brings it to life immediately. I haven't tried too many fixes yet to resolve this issue, but know the worst case would be wiring the reset switch to a relay triggered before VPX runs. I'll try plugging USB and power elsewhere as a first step.

Additional possibly useless details...I'm running this in a vertically oriented cabinet using the Bigbox frontend because I am 50/50 pinball/classic arcade games, so I also have Two PacLED64, One I-PAC 2, One UltraStik 360, One Teensy 3.2 OctoWS2811 Adaptor, One LED-Wiz 32, a KL25Z and One USB Volume Control on the same USB Hub as the NUCLEO-F429ZI. Those all seem to come up 100% of the time. The cabinet houses a shaker, Two solenoids, a knocker and two mechanical flippers as well.

Cheers!

This thread is about a issue with EVO boards.

You most likely can solve your Nucleo issue with this 

 

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  • 6 months later...
On 9/16/2021 at 11:51 PM, Maniac said:

Is there a solution for this in the meantime? I'm also a fresh owner of an 128x32 Evo Board and it also only works after pressing the reset button after powering up my Vpin Cabinet.

 

This can be caused by a few things. One solution that has worked for me is to replace the BAT60J with a zero ohm resistor or just bridge the 2 points together. If that doesn't work then you will have to check over the capacitors close to the CPU and see if any are showing zero volts as it could be a soldering issue.

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I've just tried it and replaced the BAT60J with a wire. Then I've checked the capacitors near the cpu, they have all 3.3V excpet for C3 and C4 which are at 1.1V. Unfurtenately it still only works after pressing the reset button.

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1 hour ago, Maniac said:

I've just tried it and replaced the BAT60J with a wire. Then I've checked the capacitors near the cpu, they have all 3.3V excpet for C3 and C4 which are at 1.1V. Unfurtenately it still only works after pressing the reset button.

 

It could be another component or it could be the CPU. Someone has replaced all components besides the CPU and still had this issue.

 

What you need to do to narrow it right down is to check the voltages once it is working (after you have hit reset) and compare them to when it isn't booting. Mine is showing a little higher on C3 and C4 at 1.26v but I think it may be ok. I still have some boards that still don't work after replacing the BAT60J and re flowing certain parts so there isn't a universal solution for these.

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I also searched a bit and found one topic about the time for bringing up the 3.3V might be too long.

I've only basic knowledge about electronics, but as far as I understand R3 is a pull up to get reset on 3.3V and C2 is there to keep it low until this capacitor is charged?

Would it be an idea to increase the capactity of C2 to give some more time to bringing up the 3.3V before starting the CPU?

 

I just had a look, I would have some 10uF here if it's worth a try.

Edited by Maniac
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59 minutes ago, Maniac said:

Thanks, I've also tried it yesterday evening and also without success.

Is it worth trying a bypass of the power supply section and supply the 5 volts directly?  Maybe the power supply is ramping up slower than the CPU. 

 

I hate you are having this difficulty.  I finished five boards this weekend and all worked great after I installed a USB driver that the windows 10/STM32 were happy with.  A great relief to me.  First board took three hours to program.  Other boards took two minutes.  I am using a radio shack 10 amp power supply at 13.5 volts.  Using the blue 8-36 volt tap for input.  Boards boot in about 1 second and reboot with reset just as fast.  The one installed board in LW3 is booting as soon as I turn on the external power supply.  I am still waiting on 90 degree molex connectors for Data East power tap.

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On 9/19/2021 at 6:47 PM, lucky1 said:

@Frankensteinowner already tried this without success.

 

I removed the BAT diode, jacked the 5V close to TTL levels, getting close to 3.3V on rail but all to no avail. 

 

As other users suggested - tried increasing the values of the cap on the reset circuit but, again, not cigar.

 

Guess it may be down to the CPU itself and I've no intention of trying to remove it - even my soldering isn't that good. Will just have to knock up a relay circuit to press the button a brief while after power up - that is on hold until I get my display card working - have removed all 3 PLDs - just waiting for the programmer to arrive.  If that doesn't work, the 68B45 is next on the hit list.

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It doesn’t seem like the CPU would be at fault since it boots with reset just fine. Something is delivering the wrong voltage to the CPU when the power supply comes on line I believe. After the power supply stabilizes the reset button is effective in starting the CPU. If it were the CPU you wouldn’t have such predictable behavior. 
 

Is it possible a capacitor on the CPU is backwards and therefore a reset works when a cold start doesn’t?

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