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lucky1

Ordering EVO PCBs at chinese manufactures questions and help

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hi,

just a question regarding the orders placed by pcbway...

Has anyone received a pcb from the PIN2DMD display with a problem?  

i bought a number of pcbs and one of them seems to be a problem with the memory card slot.  

I managed to load the dfu mode from the display and put the .upd file on the memory card.  

it happens that the signal display and the PIN2DMD logo appears in the current version when turning it on, when it is without the memory card.  

when I insert the memory card and restart the display it does not give an image signal.

 it seems to me that the card slot may be in trouble (shorting), as I remove the card and restart the display, the PIN2DMD image will work again.  

I tested other cards and to no avail.  someone already had this problem are you able to solve?  

thank you!

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I have ordered many boards and the number of problems has been pretty low.

I did have 2 or 3 where the solder points on the card holder were loose on one side. If pressed down on the holder against the PCB it would read the card. If you let it go you got nothing. It didn't go blank as you've indicated though.

That's all I have regarding the card holder...

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Hey lucky1 I have just been informed that TS2940CP33 (IC3) is out of stock. Is there a specific alternative I can use?

Thank you

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Thanks lucky1. They didn’t offer any alternative in the email so wasn’t sure.

 

thank you

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Hey guys, I'm thinking of ordering a 128x16 pcbs and panels for my TMNT. It looks like there are a lot more components on this board than others due to the controller being integrated, I was wondering if anyone has purchased either a single one or a small batch and had a rough estimate of what they cost for the PCB fully assembled with parts?

Thanks

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I believe minimum order through PCBWay is 5 boards. I put in an order for 5 a few months ago and, just recently, for another 10. I know a lot of people in the hobby with a lot of games so I've been able to sell a few of these but there is not a huge interest. I would have to go dig up costs but it's not just the manufacturing that you have to look at. It's also shipping and duties and taxes depending on where you are.

If you are interested in a single display, fully assembled, activated and ready to go, send me a PM.

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On 7/15/2020 at 2:01 AM, dzorbas said:

I believe minimum order through PCBWay is 5 boards. I put in an order for 5 a few months ago and, just recently, for another 10. I know a lot of people in the hobby with a lot of games so I've been able to sell a few of these but there is not a huge interest. I would have to go dig up costs but it's not just the manufacturing that you have to look at. It's also shipping and duties and taxes depending on where you are.

If you are interested in a single display, fully assembled, activated and ready to go, send me a PM.

Hey dzorbas, thanks for the info and the offer, I appreciate it. I may just go for an order of 5 as I have a few friends interested now too. I finally got all my parts for my standard ones and absolutely love them and need to put one in all my machines :D

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Hi, 
I ordered some EVO128x32 from PCBWay and they sent me this email:

"Here are photos of assembled boards. Please kindly check and confirm if all parts are soldered correctly. Pay much attention to IC, LED, BGA, etc. "

Please, can anyone check the attached photos and that everything is fine because I am not very expert.
Thanks for your help.

PCBWay EVO128x32_1.jpg

PCBWay EVO128x32_2.jpg

PCBWay EVO128x32_3.jpg

PCBWay EVO128x32_4.jpg

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You basically have to check the orientation of the components like IC (dash faced to the marker on the board), capacitor and diodes (both dash faced to +).

Here is a good picture 

Cap-elko-smd-polarity.jpg

Looks all o.k. from what I can see on the pictures.

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1 hour ago, lucky1 said:

You basically have to check the orientation of the components like IC (dash faced to the marker on the board), capacitor and diodes (both dash faced to +).

Here is a good picture 

Looks all o.k. from what I can see on the pictures.

Thanks for your help. 😉👍

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does that HUB75 connector look like it is fully soldered? In my last order of 10 boards from PCBWay, I received 1 where teh Hub75 connector was missing, luckily I had  1 I could solder in.

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8 hours ago, SteveNZ said:

does that HUB75 connector look like it is fully soldered? In my last order of 10 boards from PCBWay, I received 1 where teh Hub75 connector was missing, luckily I had  1 I could solder in.

They don´t fully solder it on the prototype board before they don´t get the approval that everything is in the right spot.

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Hi,


  I would just like to clarify a doubt that I did not find through the forum.
  I am about to create some parts of the 128x16 screen and sent the BOM file to PCBWAY to analyze.
  But in cell 61 of the excel (SD0, SD1, DE, RD, RCLK, CL, DCLK) they are asking to inform the part number or provide the link for quotation.
  My question would be whether there is any specific component to inform you.  Let me know if anyone can help me with what I may be reporting to them.
  A Google Drive link follows the mentioned BOM file.
  Cheers

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/197J4-iJEWYIqGVL4lj-fM-Lgc5xP1yCJ?usp=sharing

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Those are just solder jumpers that need to be closed like shown on the picture1922640625_SolderJumpersItem61.thumb.png.f17d934b2538872a7b06f4a386cce552.png

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I just received my set of 5 from pcb way and setup the first last night.  
 

Did anybody else have ghosting / glitching on their displays? If you look near the edges of the letters, you can see additional led's lit.  I somewhat captured it in the video as well.

I’m running the board off the 5v connector with a 2a rated wall wart.
Is this possibly a connector or power issue? Both appear to be ok.

 

14785812-7CB1-40E9-AD89-0F16C0312184.jpeg

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I have 2 wall warts that I used for setup and testing along with an old computer power supply as well as some real pinball machines. I've run into some issues with one wall wart that I believe is because it is only rated for 2.5A. We hooked a display up to a pin for testing using the 2.5A power supply and only got the logo screen and nothing more. When I used my other wall plug that puts out 3.5A, it worked no problem and we got all of the game animations. Perhaps your power supply doesn't have enough juice.

Have you tested with another board and other panels? I've built quite a few of these and I've never seen what you're seeing.

 

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5 minutes ago, dzorbas said:

I have 2 wall warts that I used for setup and testing along with an old computer power supply as well as some real pinball machines. I've run into some issues with one wall wart that I believe is because it is only rated for 2.5A. We hooked a display up to a pin for testing using the 2.5A power supply and only got the logo screen and nothing more. When I used my other wall plug that puts out 3.5A, it worked no problem and we got all of the game animations. Perhaps your power supply doesn't have enough juice.

Have you tested with another board and other panels? I've built quite a few of these and I've never seen what you're seeing.

 

No, this is the only one I've setup so far.  The boards arrived yesterday and I was just excited to get one going :D.  I have a bench power supply that can provide up to 15a of power, so I'll put build an adapter and  give that a try tonight. 

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If you power the boards with a 5V  power supply you need to make sure that the power is set below or equal to 5V. Ideal is 4.8V. If you have more than 5V you can get such artifacts and you should use the 12V input instead. It can handle between 5V and 36V . 

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1 hour ago, lucky1 said:

If you power the boards with a 5V  power supply you need to make sure that the power is set below or equal to 5V. Ideal is 4.8V. If you have more than 5V you can get such artifacts and you should use the 12V input instead. It can handle between 5V and 36V . 

Well would you look at that - no visual issues with the wall wart power hooked up to the 12v connector.  

348FE072-5057-41E2-938E-6180CE03355B.jpeg

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Ah! Missed that you said that you were running it off the 5v connector and not the 12v! 👍

 

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47 minutes ago, dzorbas said:

Ah! Missed that you said that you were running it off the 5v connector and not the 12v! 👍

 

Yeah, the power supply I’m using is 5v.  I didn’t think to plug it into the 12v connector.  Runs 100% now and is ready to drop into my JP now.  Next will be SW:DE and SMB, and then I’ll be good to go for a bit!  Well, at least until I get my TZ and CSI out of storage  :D

Thanks again guys!

340A0E81-97CB-4667-BA84-6CEEF98A000C.jpeg

FC98074D-D4C3-485A-878D-5D73FE1D05C8.jpeg

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3 hours ago, dzorbas said:

Ah! Missed that you said that you were running it off the 5v connector and not the 12v! 👍

 

He did not mention it, but pixel errors are always caused by supply voltage being over 5V and that can´t be achieved if connected to the DC DC converter which is set to 4.8V.
With newer P2 panels for SEGA displays we even have to go down to 4.2V to avoid these random pixels.

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Just another quick question - I just finished setting up my second Pin2DMD.  Does the the on-board setup menu not function when the Pin2DMD is not activated?  I know the activated one works as it should when you press the buttons on the back, but my freshly setup one just resets when you try to get into the menu. 

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