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Pin2Dmd Colorprism V2.0 Firmware


lucky1

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1 hour ago, lucky1 said:

You need to reset the settings to default in the OSD menu (hold any of the 3 buttons during boot) or use 2.41 with you discovery board.

Automatic reset if no settings are found will be added to next release.

I am using 2.41 but still no reset of the colors with the pindmd.exe (from the 2.41 archive) .. i guess the buttons andmenu is on the new v4 boards?

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The SD-Card is not needed for v-pin installations. Only for real pins. I guess you messed up you pin2dmd.dat file through up and downgrading the firmware.
To reset the firmware in V2.41 you need to delete the pin2dmd.dat file from the SD card.

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Sorry to say removal of sd card and resetting does nothing. The "pin2dmd virtual pinball" startscreen has the rainbow colors in wrong order i think. starts with black, then bright red, less red, bright purple, blueish green and so on. "pin2dmd" in white and "virtual pinball" in bright red.

2.41 firmware.
 

I have tried all settings and saving in pin2dmd.exe but still vpinmame show " red, brown and pinkish white.  Even if i choose "colorize dmd" or not in vpinmame settings.

 

Even when i create some awful pallettes in vpinmame2.9  seup exe with or withou colorization it still become the ugly pink red palett.

 

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4 hours ago, AndersE said:

Sorry to say removal of sd card and resetting does nothing. The "pin2dmd virtual pinball" startscreen has the rainbow colors in wrong order i think. starts with black, then bright red, less red, bright purple, blueish green and so on. "pin2dmd" in white and "virtual pinball" in bright red.

Make a picture of this please with SD Card removed 

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Today I tested my 1st V4 Shield (pin2dmd reference design) and I saw some not so nice things.

 

But first the good:

Test with P5 Panels (shield directly attached to DMD):

a1cd729772391e0a31bfc99e26a7438e.jpg

4b25421b1bd5d62c6727bf629b92143a.jpg

 

Ans then the Standard P2.5 Panels (shield directly attached to the DMD): (with green and blue swapped in the RGB sequence settings)

0bcd4933f1dfcdc1d23fdb0b794f3edc.jpge7af1963038d8c1f353826a9a9cf5387.jpg9cdbd94ecbf32aa48f932a0556a34a43.jpg

 

Looks good so far.

 

But when the external HUB75 header is used comes the Problem.

The cable works like an antenna and we get a not good signal.

I tried it with Shield directly on the DMD and just the cable attached the ext HUB75. Also shield with cable connected to DMD. I also changed the flat cable, but no change.

 

I will upload a Video and I like to make another Shield, to test it again.

 

Video with flickering:

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2nd Test with the V4 Shield.

A new Shield, just with Power connector, buttons, HUB75 extern Header and Controller Header.

But still the same.

 

[mention=7772]Lucky1[/mention] any Idea which Signal needs to be checked?

 

Here the Video:

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i don't get it. where does it get it's pallette from? the pink, brown reddish?
 

If you talk about the mostly brown background then it’s the default non-configured start screen.
In order to get it work do the following:

Remove usb-cable and sd-card and power it up.
While booting, press either menu or option for entering the menu.
Go to „reset defaults“ by pressing menu button several times.
Go to „save config“ and hit option button.

After you have done this your DMD should reboot. If your color sequence in the upper part of the DMD isn’t like on the reference screen enter the menu again like I described above and change to the correct order by selecting it in the „rgb sequence“. Don’t forget to save! ;)
@unclesash:
It’s not an antenna issue, the panels expect 5V for input signal, not 3.3V like nucleo and discovery normally pull out. Ls245 will help to get a clean signal. This was already discussed more then a year ago... ;)

So long,
Dom
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lucky1:
I have found out it was vpinmame not overwriting the settins in the registry. I deleted all registrysettings, retried with 2.41 firmware and vpinmame 2.9, and now it works.

Perhaps not exctly like it used to, actually better now.

rappelbox:
is there an onscreen menu on the display??? i have never seen or read about that before.

and "while booting"? the screen starts immidiately when powerd on, there is no "boot time" and i can only see two buttons on the board, one blue and one black.

I will try and see what happens, but as i got it to work now and it was vpinmame f***ing up..

 

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Did you try to play with the voltage on your power supply ? I had similar effects which went away when I reduced the voltage.


Problem is solved.
It was the Panel itself.
They where all ready not good when they arrived (green and blue swapped).

V4 works on my old panels with no issue.

One interesting fact with the new (not correct working) ones:
When I mix the old and new ones, is there absolutely no flickering (left new, right old, shields connected with cable to the right panel).

Thanks for the advice with the Voltage. I keep that in mind.
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[mention=9192]unclesash[/mention]:
It’s not an antenna issue, the panels expect 5V for input signal, not 3.3V like nucleo and discovery normally pull out. Ls245 will help to get a clean signal. This was already discussed more then a year ago... [emoji6]

So long,
Dom


Thank you for your Tip.
But what I mean with Antenna, is that the cable produce some noise on the Signal lines.
But I keep your tip in mind.

A little off topic:
I have a 128x16 original DataEast “checkpoint” on my Desk.
When you need some help...
And when do you think, can I start with the layout for that PCB?!
e0d8e16f98a82d4d1705c3097ad6fb46.jpg
3c2f431820311cc23275cdfdc709c629.jpg

- Sascha
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Did i undersend right, someone heare are preparing color dmd for older DE? Have batman, hook, st25 and checkpoint (mising only tmnt to complete colection) also have some working displays, and im wiling to help if i can.


That is right.
The OLD Pin2DMD Team work again together, to bring RGB Color to the old DataEast DMDs.
But it takes time.

I just bought an old 128x16 display.
To do some reverse engineering.

Where are you located?
My home is in SC.
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9 hours ago, UncleSash said:

Thank you for your Tip.
But what I mean with Antenna, is that the cable produce some noise on the Signal lines.
But I keep your tip in mind.
 

 

It is not exactly a noise issue. The problem is that the logic levels are not recognized correctly. If you lower the supply voltage of the panels you also lower the detection level of the panel input circuit which makes them work better with 3.3V output logic levels of the STM board.

If you want to use longer ribbon cables for what ever reason, add the  LS245 Bus Transceivers .

About the 128x16 controller. You already have the schematics for the pcbs we need for 128x16 controller. Just connect the red dots to a 2x7 pin header to make the connection to the Nucleo shield input. SD1 is connected to PIN13. My work is done as you can see :-)

 

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@uncle sash. In Serbia.

Wher did you "still" signal for pin2dmd. Fue monts ago when i repair one DE display i start to thinking about that. Taking it from inputs of driver will be same as on ordinary display. 

Glad to see that pin2dmd team are working again!!!

If you ever nead any help with testing on real pinball im heare.

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2 hours ago, Sibi said:

Wher did you "still" signal for pin2dmd. Fue monts ago when i repair one DE display i start to thinking about that. Taking it from inputs of driver will be same as on ordinary display. 

Basically all that is needed is on page one of the 128x16 DE display schematics which is the controller part. The only difference compared to a 128x32 display is that there are 2 lines of pixel data sharing a common clock. That is why I added a secondary pixel data input to the schematics of the Nucleo shield. Electronically that was very easy but syncing the data and sorting the pixels took me some hours. So far Checkpoint and Star Trek are tested and seem to be working. I developed and tested with an original cherry pcb I got from a defecitve 128x16 display.  I soldered some pins to the points I grabbed the signals from. The task for Rappelbox and UncleSash is now to make a pcb that contains only the necessary parts like Z80 cpu, RAM and EPROM socket.

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7 hours ago, lucky1 said:

Basically all that is needed is on page one of the 128x16 DE display schematics which is the controller part. The only difference compared to a 128x32 display is that there are 2 lines of pixel data sharing a common clock. That is why I added a secondary pixel data input to the schematics of the Nucleo shield. Electronically that was very easy but syncing the data and sorting the pixels took me some hours. So far Checkpoint and Star Trek are tested and seem to be working. I developed and tested with an original cherry pcb I got from a defecitve 128x16 display.  I soldered some pins to the points I grabbed the signals from. The task for Rappelbox and UncleSash is now to make a pcb that contains only the necessary parts like Z80 cpu, RAM and EPROM socket.

We are working on the PCB...
I think one or two weeks, until the Layout is done.
And then... PCB Ordering and some final tests!

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13 hours ago, lucky1 said:

It is not exactly a noise issue. The problem is that the logic levels are not recognized correctly. If you lower the supply voltage of the panels you also lower the detection level of the panel input circuit which makes them work better with 3.3V output logic levels of the STM board.

If you want to use longer ribbon cables for what ever reason, add the  LS245 Bus Transceivers .

about the 128x16 controller. You already have the schematics for the pcbs we need for 128x16 controller. Just connect the red dots to a 2x7 pin header to make the connection to the Nucleo shield input. SD1 is connected to PIN13. My work is done as you can see :-)

 

Which Software Settings I has to use? I mean which Inout type?
Because I like to test it with my DE original DMD (that hopefully works...) that I bought.

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