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Mameman

Plans: Williams Widebody Cabinet Plans

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File Name: Williams Widebody Cabinet Plans

File Submitter: Mameman

File Submitted: 23 Jan 2013

File Category: Cabinet Plans

Williams widebody plans, taken from my original TZ.

Has been the source for many builds to date.

for those not use to working with the metric system, simply take the number and divide by 25.4 to get imperial.

Click here to download this file

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Thanks for the plans. id like to build one soon. Do you have any diagrams for

the front where to drill holes for the buttons and also where to mount the hinges on the

backbox so it folds down. thanks

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The hinges are easy, wait until you have the backbox centered (left to right) and even with the cabinet back, then mark your holes and attach the hinges to the backbox first. Once that is done, mark your holes on the cab and drill. As far as the buttons you can look at these threads on the hyperpin forums:

 

http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?23687-STAR-WARS-Pinball-Unleashed-46-quot-32-quot-DMD-Widebody-Build

 

http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?24865-Tiki-Gods-Pinball-46-quot-32-quot-DMD-Widebody-Build

 

Z

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Hi! New at this but what I've read in other forums is that a Williams widebody lockdown bar is 630mm from inner edge to inner edge. Wouldn't making the box 630mm wide as in your plans make it very tight when you put on side rails? Wouldn't 625mm be a better outer messurment to get some clearance?

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Ok, I do have a STTNG available to me for measuring. I guess I'll do that first to see how tight the tolerances of the cabinet building department of Williams was :)

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Hey Mameman,

 

I'm at the point of making holes for my pinball legs. I saw this picture from someone who had them at 18 cm and 23 cm.

Are these dimensions correct ? I do see the 23 cm leg is higher at the cab, but If I look at the bottom of the cabinet (from left to right) I don't see that 5 cm difference in height...or is that my eye not seeing it right ;) ?

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=26620&d=1367

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I'm curious, where do you get you top glass for your DYI cab? The glass issue is the only reason I am trying to shoehorn my system into the 70's cab I already had, well that and the lockbar.

 

Good question, as the answer is often overlooked. You want to source this from a local glass shop near you. Trust me, there will be one somewhere close. They will be able to cut you a sheet for vaaaaastly less than the cost of buying glass off the web and having to ship it.

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Anyone have a guesstimate on the cost of say a wide body size sheet of glass?  I've either got to buy a different size monitor for my cab or build a custom cab around it, just wondering the cost differences.

I'm kind of tired of my monitors just setting on top of the cab daring someone to knock them off in the floor!  :(

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It can vary, I have paid anywhere from $38 to $60 for a sheet of Tempered widebody glass at local glass places. Here I'm MI I use Henderson glass.

Depending on where you are it maybe cheaper to get it from pinball life, Marco or a nearby show.

WWW.Xtremepinball.com

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I got 6mm toughnned starfire (lead free low iron - clear) playfield and backglass for ~AU$100 from a local Sydney glass supplier.

I would have preferred 5mm but my options were either 4mm or 6mm

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Well, sounds like before I go that route, I'll first try shoe horning my monitor in the cab I have.  If that fails I will hit up the arcade supplier I know to see if I cam buy a dead wide body cheap. 

By the time I pay around $100 for glass, $100 for lock bar and what ever wood will cost I could afford to pay 3 or 4 hundred for a wide body with all that already on it.

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If you buy for several machines you can get it cheap.  I bought 6mm toughened (don't forget to ask for no logo, or you get the Standards mark on the bottom left corner) for 6 machines. 1 wide body 5 regular and a 2mm non reflective for a translate all for $256 AUD.

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Nice, but if you are going to have a TV and a computer in the lower box I think you might need more air holes than on the pic. But I guess its work in progress still.

Skickat från min Nexus 7 via Tapatalk

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On my cheaply made cab, I found a local company here that cut the tempered glass.

In hindsight for some of the things i got made that i would get done better is:

1. Make sure the glass is tempered, and also buffed(sanded) edges.

Same with the metal i got made up. I had forgotten to asked for the metal to be really polishes and some of the edges although are not sharp enough to cut i would have like them softer. Just some things to remember that i didn't.

I payed about $50 for the glass, and 125 for all the metalwork.

Cheers,

Maceman

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