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Westworld last won the day on June 17 2017

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About Westworld

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  1. You could load the DOF source and try to create your own tool to do so. That could be a lot of work but theoretically possible. You could also add a LAN adapter to your Arduino and use an ARTNET library and write your own firmware to bind Artnet with your led strip. DOF allows to use Artnet, before Teensy code was available I used that for hundreds of leds. Setup was a nightmare, but it worked. So it should be possible, but don't underestimate the work.
  2. I don't agree with "no advantage". You might say "an endless configuration and setup work". Or you might say "a wonderful way to improve pinball experience and enter another world". You can also just use PinUp player, which replaces the backglass (instead direct2bs) where you need the huge files as you described. They work fine with 2 screens, even 3 or 4 do not hurt. If you once played Tron with that, you never want to miss that. I think there are 20+ games using it and each one is worth the time to setup. Tron. Jaws. Back to the future. Terminator 2 and many more. And you can use it for the player, which replaces PinballX. No different size, but thousands more ways to setup. Several videos (transparent) on top of each. You will need a while to understand, but the result is worth the time...
  3. In case you started with a pinball wizard (game controller + digital plunger from Nanotech) and want to replace the controller (I'm unhappy with nudge) but continue to use the plunger... The plunger, connected via SATA, is a I2C device, using a TSL2561 sensor. As such, it is a kind of plug&play to reuse with any other controller, Teensy, Arduino, etc, no need to replace it. A SATA cable has 4 isolated wires plus ground. Two of the isolated cables carry 3.3V, the two others are SDA/SCL for I2C. (as long you don't mix ground, don't worry, you can jus try them, no damage). Default Addr = 0x39 Use a library as https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_TSL2561 to talk to the plunger. You might want to use the example delivered with the library In normal position it returns 123 lux, pushed in 162 lux, moved out 23 lux. This values are with standard settings, did not tried higher resolution yet. I'll use it with a Teensy LC ($12), plus BMI160 (gyro/accelerator, 5$), to get nudge, plunger and buttons. The BMI160 is self calibrating...
  4. just mount it on the Octo2811 adapter, you need that anyway. And magic, now it is 4 times bigger ! Great, isn't? And yeah, there are holes allowing you do use screws to mount to your cabinet. Power supply via USB from computer, done.
  5. DOF don't merge several actions on the same layer. If you want to have several effects on top of each other, you need to assign them to layers, the layer with the highest number will be drawn on top (so the background color needs to have L1). Don't think you can do that with combo.
  6. Hi, DOF ConfigTool uses for Night Rider the ROM name "nightrd". Launching the table fails to use DOF, I need to manually overwrite the .ini files with the ROM name nightrdr, as used in the table (and in PinMAME ROM list). Currently I help myself by manually overwriting the created ini files, but once in a while I forget and then wonder why DOF fails to load. I asume "nightrd" is a kind of short name which is not identified in my case, is there something I can do to solve that? thanks
  7. To illuminate my game room I created 3D printed lights, designed similar to pinball bumpers/towers. Inside they have ledstrips, connected via Wifi to the pinball cabinet (avoiding cables through the room) controlled with DOF. The lamps are a combination of background light and game actions. The video shows typical animations and background lights for several games: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvUSc_3gUc8 If you do not have a 3D printer, you might use purchased lamps, etc. I'm using two bumpers mounted on a plate, two of these, one each side of the room. As I could run a (hidden) cable between both I needed only one Wifi controller + power supply for both. Of course you could use one controller/power supply per lamp, if needed. To build it, you need access to a 3D printer, material need is < 1 kg ($20) Two wood plates to mount it. 1 x Wemos D1 mini (ESP8266) ($4 in China via ebay) 1 x 2 channel relais board (for Arduino) ($1 in China) 1 x 5V 15A power supply ($20) 4 x "8x5-40-LED-Matrix-WS2812-LED-5050-RGB-Full-Color-Driver-Board-For-Arduino" ($8 China) 1 x IC 74HCT245 (20 Cent) some cables, some resistors... Build the controller on a breadboard, when working you might want to solder it on a prototyping board to get it small and fit into a case. 3D files to download and print are here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2781747 There are some picture how the printed part looks and how to mount the LED's as well. Here is the source for the controller. You need to download and install Arduino IDE to upload the firmware. If you never did so before, search for "wemos arduino tutorial" example: http://www.instructables.com/id/Programming-the-WeMos-Using-Arduino-SoftwareIDE/ Start with a "blink" example. When ready, open the source. Enter your Wifi data to allow it to connect. Either check your router or use the serial monitor to learn the IP address of the device (and check if Wifi connection worked). If the ledstrips, relais, power are connected correctly, it will start by enabling the relais and run a green LED through the strip. BTW, the relais are used to shutdown the power supply. The Wemos (using a Power/USB adapter, 1Ah is fine) is always connected to power. It will "wakeup" as soon you start playing pinball. Then it will power on via the relais the 5V power supply, avoiding that this thing is always connected to power and burn energy (or burn your house on failure). After 60 seconds without signal it will shutdown the power supply automatically. The controller responds to Artnet universe 1+2 for pinball. If you have an Artnet controller on your smartphone (or your smart house, such as Homematic or Siri with Homebridge), it will respond to Universe 0. The first 3 lamps represent RGB, so you can setup a background light for your room even if you don't play. Finally you need to setup DOF. The cabinet.xml is huge, as you need to define all lamps, for each color. I upload mine as example, if you use the same number of LED's, you can just copy&paste. Finally you need to setup DOF and download the directoutputconfig100.ini file. An example how from my setup is enclosed. Good luck - and much fun. Artnetpinballlamp.ino cabinet.xml
  8. Settings looks good for me - given you have only 20 LED's in the strip. Beside that mine look similar, just I don't set the timeout - I do not have <ComPortTimeOutMs>200</ComPortTimeOutMs> in my file. but this should not matter, as 200 is the default setting if not used. As the LEDs become white and then go off, maybe power supply issue? If you have only 20 LED's, you could charge them directly from the Teensy (5V pin), which get's its power via USB. That is not a solution forever of course, just for testing.
  9. > You can just type in a higher number and it does work! Super cool! it should work from 1-360 in 1 degree units. Following that way (using a text editor as the last step when your design is finished) would avoid to do changes in the code, while giving you the feature you want...
  10. Sorry, I never used rotation, no idea how that works... My skills with Basic is limited early Commodore times (VIC20), 35 years ago. I quickly checked Herweh's source about snippts and was unable to find any restriction. Did you tried it? Is there a message saying only steps of 4 are allowed - or limited to 90? Can you upload your b2s for testing? You could open the file with a texteditor (-> Notepad++), it is XML, clear text. It looks for me as if there should be an entry for a snipped named "SnippitRotatingSteps" which give the steps - or alternative an entry named "SnippitRotatingAngle". If the angle is given, it is calcuating: SnippitRotatingSteps = 360 / SnippitRotatingAngle which looks for me as steps would be in unit of 1 (the result from above is rounded to integers, no decimal point) If the designer limits you to enter values, you still could overwrite them using a text editor, just to try...
  11. thanks for testing. I'll edited the first post with updated source and build.
  12. was not so difficult, at least I hope, not so easy to test with a notebook and only one screen. An updated build is enclosed. Could you ask the user to test this version? If it works, I'll upload the source. Only modification is to store the original offset and reuse it later (when it calculates the DMD form position). thanks. B2SBackglassServerEXE.zip
  13. > it is also mis-aligning the DMD image meant for a third screen. oops... I have a real DMD, so I never noticed. Will take a look next weekend.
  14. More news. Seems that everything is done already, I just looked at the wrong place. The way I described is the 'wrong' way, that's maybe why it was never finished or documented. The B2SServer, both DLL and EXE, includes already a way to handle alphanumeric LED's in original tables. Not by passing text as I described, but by defining a LED with directly specifying the segments (binary). This looks of course upfront for much more work - but it allows you to handle any symbol or combination. Suddenly I remembered that there is already a great original table using such as backglass, JPSalas Scarface. Load both table and backglass: http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?app=downloads&showfile=7467 Open the backglass with the designer. Open the DMD. You will notice that the DMD contains both alphanumeric LED's and some pictures, used for the 'DMD animation'. Just pictures, but looks much more impressive. Now open the table and look into the script. Look for DD or B2SDMD... There are already many subroutines handling all the work. Encoding of characters to segments, displaying characters, even blinking. All is there - and the table proves that it works great (as long you know how to do it).
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