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About nickbuol

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    Marion, Iowa

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  1. It will be fun to see this on my virtual pin which sits right next to my Theatre of Magic that has a ColorDMD installed. This game really looks good with the colorized DMD. Thank you for your work on this.
  2. So far so good. I played TRON Legacy, which I was getting about 2 minutes into yesterday before it would "fail" and go to not activated, and made it through a full game, then went to 3 more tables and played 2 balls each, all without issue. Not sure that it all helped, but I updated the firmware to 2.58 as mentioned (via micro SDcard), I left the original PIN2DMD.DAT that was on the micro SDcard, but also added my activation key (renamed to pin2dmd.key). I doubt that will do any good, but I did it anyway. I made sure that I ran the zadig USB tool (I don't think that I ever did) and changed the Pin2DMD device to libusb-win32. I also copied all of the latest files into the Pin2DMD folder on my C: drive and overwrote the old files. Lastly, I swapped USB ports just for kicks. So I *think* we are good. YAY! Finally getting some of the kinks worked out.
  3. Updated to 2.58 via micro SDcard. Need to try one other thing and then test it. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  4. Colorprism V2.51 is what I see. Looks like the latest is 2.58. Unfortunately the ST Link utility keeps saying "No ST-LINK detected" when I select Target>Connect. Might have to upgrade via microSD, which is unfortunate because getting to my Pin2DMD is not a simple task. Makes me almost wish that I put an access panel on the back of my backbox.
  5. Not sure how to check the current firmware version (probably in the update tool or something), but I will grab the latest and update.
  6. So I tested it again and in the middle of TRON Legacy it just went to Not Activated. So it is happening mid-game it seems. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  7. Working through my cabinet and did the physical build first, and now have been messing with the software so I haven't played a ton of games yet and don't even have a frontend menu system installed yet either. But, for some reason when I play some tables (most tables) when I exit out of the table, but not out of VPX, the Pin2DMD will pop up that it is Not Activated and then won't work again until I power cycle the whole cabinet. I am not sure if this is just with colored DMD tables or not, and will keep trying to find a pattern, but it happens A LOT. I have a valid license, and it works perfectly right after reboot, but between games it does this. Please help. Oh, I have an Uncle Sash built Pin2DMD that he made me around Christmas 2017 if that helps to put a "date of birth" on to the one that I have.
  8. Another update. So I removed the old board to replace it, and the new board is a different size.... Not a problem since Sash's board has connections for both: I tested the new assembly once I installed the new board, and it was set to output max voltage. I had to dial in down a lot to get it down to 5.00v. I unplugged the power supply and plugged it back in a couple of times to verify that it was going to hold a steady 5.00v after restarts, to simulate the cabinet power cycling. It did. I then put it back on to the Pin2DMD and am seeing the following lights, which I *think* are correct since I don't have a data signal, etc. And the front looks good....
  9. Quick update. I applied 5V to the two areas I marked in one of the above photos. Worked perfect. I am still going to use the DC-DC converter so that I can use my under-utilized 12V power supply, and save my 5V power supply for other things. Thanks.
  10. So the DC-DC converter took all of the punishment and didn't pass the power on downstream? Nice! Thanks for the part number. I see several on eBay for about $4 shipped. Might pay $5.69 from Amazon and get it on Monday instead of having to wait until next Saturday. Does it have to look exactly the same, or as long as it is one of them that looks similar it is OK? I also assume that I will have to adjust the output voltage to get it to be 5V. I will be sure to test that with a voltmeter before connecting it all back together. Here is the style of the one I was looking at on Amazon: Thanks!
  11. Stupid, stupid mistake. Plugged in my Pin2DMD for the first time a couple of days ago. Was using a 12v power supply. Powered on great. Then I disconnected the power connections so that I could mount it to my DMD/Speaker panel today. I connected the power up, but due to the lack of a good working space, I accidentally connected the positive to the negative and the negative to the positive on the DC-DC power converter board that takes the input volts and drops it down to 5 volts. That board smoked right away. My main question is this. Is the whole PIN2DMD destroyed? Just the DC-DC board? The only "smoked" smell is from the DC-DC board, and nothing else, but this is electricity and it doesn't require much to be wrong to damage something. Any advise. I don't want to start trying things without the DC-DC board in fear of making something else work. With the board removed, I am pretty sure that I would just need to apply 5v, instead of 12, to the following locations. Any help or advice (beside not connecting the power in reverse polarity) would be great.
  12. Trying to hook things up today, but my new computer build only has USB 3.0 and 3.1 ports on it. Started digging and saw reference to USB 2.0 ports being needed, but that information was from a couple of years ago. Is that still the case that USB 2.0 ports are required? If so I guess I will need to order some USB connectors (the motherboard has headers for USB 2.0), but at some point USB 3.0 or higher will be the only option, so I am hoping that it is actually supported.
  13. Well shoot. If I need to run a separate line of 5v for that too, then I might as well run a line from my 12V 30A power supply to the DC-DC board and call it a day. Thanks for the help @lucky1
  14. After having my Pin2DMD for a few months, I am FINALLY really to install it. I originally bought it with the DC-DC board so that I could hook up 12v or 24v power, but I am thinking that (due to some wiring conveniences) I want to just run 5V to it from my PC power supply. I've got a nice 80+ Gold 750Watt power supply for my PC build. So looking at the picture I've included, I don't use the power plug at the top (red X), I disconnect the connection in the blue box and connect to the PC power supply, but then what about the connection in orange with the orange '???' in the box? To fully remove the DC-DC board, I need to disconnect those wires. They seem to be supplying 5v to that connection inside the orange box. What do I do there? Does that board need separate 5v to it, or does it pull from the USB? Please advise on how to properly remove the DC-DC board and run this more "stock"... Thanks for your help. My searching for answers this morning has hit a road block.
  15. Yeah, I bought the DC-DC converter option because I didn't know if I needed it. Is it valuable to have, or should I just remove it and use 5V from the computer power supply like you mentioned?
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