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About nickbuol

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    Marion, Iowa

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  1. Ugh. Pin2DMD fried?

    Another update. So I removed the old board to replace it, and the new board is a different size.... Not a problem since Sash's board has connections for both: I tested the new assembly once I installed the new board, and it was set to output max voltage. I had to dial in down a lot to get it down to 5.00v. I unplugged the power supply and plugged it back in a couple of times to verify that it was going to hold a steady 5.00v after restarts, to simulate the cabinet power cycling. It did. I then put it back on to the Pin2DMD and am seeing the following lights, which I *think* are correct since I don't have a data signal, etc. And the front looks good....
  2. Ugh. Pin2DMD fried?

    Quick update. I applied 5V to the two areas I marked in one of the above photos. Worked perfect. I am still going to use the DC-DC converter so that I can use my under-utilized 12V power supply, and save my 5V power supply for other things. Thanks.
  3. Ugh. Pin2DMD fried?

    So the DC-DC converter took all of the punishment and didn't pass the power on downstream? Nice! Thanks for the part number. I see several on eBay for about $4 shipped. Might pay $5.69 from Amazon and get it on Monday instead of having to wait until next Saturday. Does it have to look exactly the same, or as long as it is one of them that looks similar it is OK? I also assume that I will have to adjust the output voltage to get it to be 5V. I will be sure to test that with a voltmeter before connecting it all back together. Here is the style of the one I was looking at on Amazon: Thanks!
  4. Ugh. Pin2DMD fried?

    Stupid, stupid mistake. Plugged in my Pin2DMD for the first time a couple of days ago. Was using a 12v power supply. Powered on great. Then I disconnected the power connections so that I could mount it to my DMD/Speaker panel today. I connected the power up, but due to the lack of a good working space, I accidentally connected the positive to the negative and the negative to the positive on the DC-DC power converter board that takes the input volts and drops it down to 5 volts. That board smoked right away. My main question is this. Is the whole PIN2DMD destroyed? Just the DC-DC board? The only "smoked" smell is from the DC-DC board, and nothing else, but this is electricity and it doesn't require much to be wrong to damage something. Any advise. I don't want to start trying things without the DC-DC board in fear of making something else work. With the board removed, I am pretty sure that I would just need to apply 5v, instead of 12, to the following locations. Any help or advice (beside not connecting the power in reverse polarity) would be great.
  5. Trying to hook things up today, but my new computer build only has USB 3.0 and 3.1 ports on it. Started digging and saw reference to USB 2.0 ports being needed, but that information was from a couple of years ago. Is that still the case that USB 2.0 ports are required? If so I guess I will need to order some USB connectors (the motherboard has headers for USB 2.0), but at some point USB 3.0 or higher will be the only option, so I am hoping that it is actually supported.
  6. Quick power wiring question when removing DC-DC board

    Well shoot. If I need to run a separate line of 5v for that too, then I might as well run a line from my 12V 30A power supply to the DC-DC board and call it a day. Thanks for the help @lucky1
  7. After having my Pin2DMD for a few months, I am FINALLY really to install it. I originally bought it with the DC-DC board so that I could hook up 12v or 24v power, but I am thinking that (due to some wiring conveniences) I want to just run 5V to it from my PC power supply. I've got a nice 80+ Gold 750Watt power supply for my PC build. So looking at the picture I've included, I don't use the power plug at the top (red X), I disconnect the connection in the blue box and connect to the PC power supply, but then what about the connection in orange with the orange '???' in the box? To fully remove the DC-DC board, I need to disconnect those wires. They seem to be supplying 5v to that connection inside the orange box. What do I do there? Does that board need separate 5v to it, or does it pull from the USB? Please advise on how to properly remove the DC-DC board and run this more "stock"... Thanks for your help. My searching for answers this morning has hit a road block.
  8. What power supply should I buy?

    Yeah, I bought the DC-DC converter option because I didn't know if I needed it. Is it valuable to have, or should I just remove it and use 5V from the computer power supply like you mentioned?
  9. What power supply should I buy?

    UncleSash hooked me up with an awesome Pin2DMD, however I have some questions around the power. This will be going into a virtual pinball cabinet. I plan to just provide the Pin2DMD with its own dedicated power supply since they are relatively inexpensive. He recommended a 24V power supply. I'm not saying that is wrong, but I am reading elsewhere that people are using smaller than that. I really don't care if it is 12V or 24V, just looking for best options. I found a 24V 1A 24Watt power supply, and a 24V 1A 48Watt power supply for around $10 each new. Is that enough amperage? Should I be looking at something completely different? Sorry for the noob questions. I see where everything goes based off of the photos that were sent to me of my unit, but just need to iron out this power question. I just want to do it right the first time. Thanks all.
  10. Kind of an odd question, but I am just getting the displays this week (thanks to some Black Friday savings), and have the whole build in front of me yet. Due to financial limits put on me by my accountant (wife), I need to spread out the spending a bit. So I need to build the cabinet first with the monitors and Pin2DMD, then wait until after Christmas before buying the PC and getting it all set up, and then sometime in spring or early summer, add the DOF toys. What should I account for now in the build from an electronics perspective that will be useful when I get to the DOF stage later on? Basically, I don't want to have to "re-do" or "re-buy" something for DOF because I didn't account for it now. Looking at the standard bits: LED matrix instead of the RGB flasher/strobe "bar" above the rear of the playfield Addressable LED "strips" on the right and left sides of the playfield. 10 contactor setup Knocker Shaker motor wiper motor Undercabinet lighting I'm not looking for a full "how to" as there are threads and discussions about that already out there, but maybe just a quick "account for *this* now" kind of thing. Thanks.
  11. Virtual Pinball Cab 46" / 27" / Dmd

    Looks very nice. MDF is super heavy stuff. I made my 2nd 4 player MAME cabinet out of it, and dang, it is massively heavy. Must be nice to have a CNC at your disposal....
  12. How well would an i5-4570 quad core 3.2GHz CPU with 8GB RAM be good enough to run all of the main systems at full resolution and frame rate? I know that a LOT of this will rely on the graphics card, but I am trying to work on the base computer specs and have access to a computer with the above mentioned CPU and RAM (and 240GB SSD) for next to nothing. That said, if it isn't powerful enough of a base computer, I will scrap the idea and build from the ground up. Thanks.