Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

dzorbas

Members
  • Content Count

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

1 Follower

About dzorbas

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Pickering, ON, Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Looks good. I was thinking along those lines. Thanks, DZ.
  2. I bought some hex spacers as well and when we tried it with them it put the display far enough back. When we put the original red cover in front of it to test fit there was a bit of a gap between it and the display and nothing to hold the cover firmly in place. I'm assuming that if you just used the hex spacers that you did not put a clear panel in front of the display. I guess we could just use some nuts on the studs to hold the clear acrylic piece in place and then use the hex spacers for the display. Just looking for the simplest solution that requires the least hardware and fiddling around. Thanks!
  3. I've installed an EVO display in my friend's Metallica machine. The speaker panel is metal and quite thin compared to older games. When you remove the factory display and red acrylic panel and install the pin2dmd display, it sticks out the front of the panel. I was thinking of putting in a clear acrylic panel and then putting the display right up against it and tightening everything up. The clear acrylic will be sandwiched between speaker panel and the LED panels of the display. Does anyone think this will be an issue with the LED panels? Will this generate too much heat and shorten their lives? Should there be a gap between the acrylic panel and the LED panels? I can put in some spacers but the easiest solution is to sandwich everything together. Thanks for your input! Dino Z.
  4. That's what it looked like in a picture he sent me although he says he plugged it into the DMD controller. We sorted that out but he is still having an issue. He has 2 pin2dmd boards and says they are both doing the same thing, no video from the pin. He's going to try an external power supply in case there isn't enough power to the display. I can't believe that is problem if the display is booting and getting to the pin2dmd logo. He has a couple of other games so he is going to plug one in to see if they are working. The investigation continues...
  5. Thanks for the info. I was able to test on a DE Tommy last night. No issues. I looked at a picture from the guy that is installing it and it looks as though he unplugged the ribbon cable from the DMD controller and plugged that into the pin2dmd board instead of the connector on the other end. Could be a matter of confusion. Hope it's that simple!
  6. Is the install of an EVO board straight forward on a Data East machine? Wiiliams/Bally machines it's just plug in the power and get the ribbon cable the right way and you are good to go. I have someone trying to get one installed on a DE WWF machine and he gets nothing but the logo screen. Works fine with his original display. He has colour files on the SD card. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Dino Z.
  7. That would be perfect! Too bad all games didn't have that setup!
  8. Definitely another great option and I recommended this in a different post. Are you sure that the service outlet is only powered when the game is on? I'm not sure about Gottlieb pins but many of the others that I've done work on generally have power going to that outlet as long as the pin is plugged in. It doesn't have to be powered on. I'd think that you would want to be able to plug something into that outlet, such as a soldering iron, and work on the pin while it was powered off...
  9. Someone else was asking about this and thought it might be good to collect a few links that may be useful for people owning real pins that want to use these displays: For WPC89 games - https://www.pinballlife.com/power-tap-board-for-williamsbally-wpc-era-machines.html For WPC95 games - https://www.pinballlife.com/power-tap-board-for-wpc-95.html For Stern Whitestar/SAM games - https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0047-00 You will also need the proper connector and pins to plug into these boards. You can either build your own, solder wires directly to the board or buy one of the following and modify them: 4 foot cable - https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0367-00 8 foot cable - https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0366-00 Y splitter cable - https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-12v-and-5v-splitter-harness.html Pinball Life has a few other power boards and taps that you might find useful. I have no affiliation with these people, just thought it might be helpful. And yes, they are based in the US and I don't know whether they will ship worldwide.
  10. Or buy and external 12v power supply and run it off of the maintenance plug inside your machine. The only problem, unless you modify the maintenance outlet, is that it will always have power even when the machine is off. I believe there is an easy way to modify the outlet so it only has power when the machine has power. Or you can plug plug your pin into a smart outlet so when you ask Alexa to turn the game off, all the power gets cut. Personally, I would do what Lucky1 suggests. Or buy this - https://www.pinballlife.com/power-tap-board-for-williamsbally-wpc-era-machines.html
  11. Folks, For those of you in Canada that are interested in purchasing a PIN2DMD display based on Lucky1's EVO board design, I've been building and selling a few of them over the last few months. I'm asking $250 CDN plus shipping for a fully activated board. This DOES NOT include an external power supply. If you are installing in a real pin I will build an appropriate power harness which is included in the cost. I'm not asking for deposits or money up front. If you want one, or many, I will add you to my list and when I have stock ready, I will reach out to you and we can make the appropriate arrangements for payment and shipment. As parts are coming from China it's usually a 30 day turn around for me to have them built and ready to go. Drop me a PM if you are in the market for one. Thanks, Dino Z.
  12. Personally, I was thinking the same thing. He told me it stopped doing it a little later in the evening. My gut was telling me that it was either a loose cable or that his machine was doing something weird. I asked if he had shut down the game and turned it back on, which he said he did. The result was the same. At this point he says things are okay but I have asked him to troubleshoot and report back to me. I thought it might be useful to ask the forum in case someone else had a similar issue. Thanks to both of you for replying!
  13. Guys, A buddy just sent me this picture of his Getaway. I've asked him to check cables to make sure everything is seated properly which he will do later. Has anyone experienced or seen something similar? I might have him plug in his original display to see if the same thing occurs. Any suggestions or help would be appreciated. Thanks! Dino Z.
  14. I noticed that you updated the parts list a few months back. I'm not sure what copy of the files I have uploaded to PCBWay, it may have been the older ones. I keep just using my original order as a re-order so it is very simple. Would it be better to update all the files to your new ones or am I okay to keep using the older files? You mentioned that it was a minor change in the parts list. Anything to worry about or should I just upload the latest ones? Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...