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About dzorbas

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    Pickering, ON, Canada

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  1. I believe minimum order through PCBWay is 5 boards. I put in an order for 5 a few months ago and, just recently, for another 10. I know a lot of people in the hobby with a lot of games so I've been able to sell a few of these but there is not a huge interest. I would have to go dig up costs but it's not just the manufacturing that you have to look at. It's also shipping and duties and taxes depending on where you are. If you are interested in a single display, fully assembled, activated and ready to go, send me a PM.
  2. I noticed that there is a updated version of the firmware for the EVO boards - 3.14. I see that a new feature has been added, PAL Storage with a couple of options. Lucky1, can you explain this? Also, the Test Display option no longer works in the new version. At least it didn't on two boards that I tested. Appreciate your efforts as always.
  3. I have ordered many boards and the number of problems has been pretty low. I did have 2 or 3 where the solder points on the card holder were loose on one side. If pressed down on the holder against the PCB it would read the card. If you let it go you got nothing. It didn't go blank as you've indicated though. That's all I have regarding the card holder...
  4. I checked everywhere for them. I think Stern uses them in their games but they must have someone manufacturing them as a special order. There was one company that used to make them but I think they went out of business. Pinball Life sells them as well. In the end, that's why I'm just soldering and heat shrinking the wires to the connector.
  5. The J116/J138 connector is an MTA-156 IDC connector and the pin2dmd power connector is VHR-4N. The question is how are you constructing the circled part below? That looks like 2 pieces combined or maybe I'm mistaken.
  6. I order my parts from Digikey but I'm in Canada. I'm sure they will ship worldwide. I like Lucky1's cables but this is what I've been building. And no, you probably don't need the 3rd wire between the Z connector and the J116 connector as long as you use J116 in the back box . You can use J117 in the back back as well and that 3rd wire cares 5v.
  7. The image below might clarify things for you. There are eight solder pads on the front side of the board for the power connectors for the LED panels. No need to run any other power wires to the panels. When you order your panels they should come with a couple of flat ribbon cables (signal cables) and a power harness. You can cut the white connectors with the 4 wires off the harness as you only need a couple of inches of wire. Strip and solder the wires to these pads. As for the panels, if you are using Aliexpress, look for the ones being sold by Coreman. Up until now, I have been purchasing the ones with the higher brightness but I grabbed a set of the lower brightness panels as a test and threw them in my Judge Dredd. These have a much more usable brightness. You can turn them up to 80% and they are plenty bright. With the other higher brightness panels, I leave them down around 25-30%. Anything more than 50% and they start to blind you. These lower brightness panels also draw less current which is a good thing. I exchanged a few messages with Lucky1 and he didn't see a reason not to use them. They are also quite a bit cheaper than the other panels. What I can't tell you for sure is which panels I'm getting, I just know they are the lower intensity. I deal directly with Coreman so I just told my contact to send me the same panels as the test panels I received. Hope this helps. Feel free to ask me more question if you need any other info!
  8. I've ordered over 100 EVO PCBs. All but two have gone into real pins. No issues. You may want to exclude one item from the BOM, that would be the SAM power connector circled below, just to avoid confusion. You want to use the connector in the bottom right area to power the display. I'm not sure what you mean about soldering power connectors. The only soldering required are the power connectors (red/black wires with white connector) that go to the actual LED panels. You will need to build a power harness to tap into the headers inside the back box of the pin or you will need some type of external power supply.
  9. Seeing as I own the game and have heavy interest in pin2dmds, I'd be willing to give this a shot. I won't be able to do this quickly but I'd be happy to work on it. Let me know. Thanks.
  10. Understood. It's a nice to have. I'm sure that there are plenty of other things on the list ahead of this! Thanks!
  11. Yes, I'm referring to the onscreen menu of the pin2dmd. I understand that there are other options for changing settings like plugging in a laptop, etc. but the most convenient and quickest way is to use the buttons on the back of the board. It's much easier if you want try different colours or increase/decrease the brighness to do it this way than plugging in a laptop and doing it that way. I just figured that since the software knows it's a 128x16 board it might not be that difficult to add some code it to display the onscreen menu and settings. Just a thought...
  12. I don't know if this is asking too much or if someone has mentioned it before. Would it be difficult to modify the firmware so that when you are using it with a DE 128x16 EVO board, rather than it using the full height of the LED panels for the logo/menu/config, it only uses the same section that is visible during game play? I installed one in a friend's Star Trek and we could not see the menu options once the display was installed in the game. Thanks for even considering this!
  13. So we tried a second display in the game with exactly the same result. Not sure what to try next... DZ.
  14. We have installed one of these panels in a DE Star Trek. The display is not sensing the game and we have tried to manually set it to DE 128x16 with no luck. All we get is the PIN2DMD logo. We have tried two different chips from working displays so we believe that is not the issue. We have tried installing the data cable both ways, again, nothing. We tried resetting the display to default. Still nothing. I've flashed a lot of EVO boards so I don't believe that is the problem unless I somehow corrupted the firmware file when I downloaded it. It is the same file for the 128x32 right? I have 3 more of these displays that we can test with but was wondering if I'm missing something obvious. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Dino Z.
  15. Thanks for the instructions Lucky1, which I've followed successfully for Metallica. I guess I'm struggling with a couple of things here. I see all of these macros in the repository. Where do I find the smartdmd.txt files and how do I know if they need a serial connection? And are we limited to just these games? For example, the zip for Big Buck Hunter in ROM patch download file contained the smartdmd.txt file. I can follow all the steps but how do I know if it needs a serial cable or not? And there are some games in the ROM patch download section with later revision numbers that tell you to reach out to the author which I've done in some cases but I've received no response. I'm always happy to donate for the time and effort people put in on this stuff. It just seems difficult to locate files in many cases.
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